Webbtown, Graded school, Pates

Dropping in a few days ago to see my old friend L. D. Giddens, who was ailing somewhat, and talking of old times, he said the old stage road from New Bern used to pass through his lot. That there were evidences on the lowed end of the lot of the old road having run there and said he had been told that drivers used to water their horses from the walled well that stands in his front yard.
 
As long ago as I can remember, I used to hear of old lady Polly Ellis, an aged, wrinkled white woman who lived in the Webbtown section. Some people said she was a witch, but I guess she knew very little about witchcraft. Some one asked her once if she really was a witch, and her reply was that in her young days, when she was pretty, she could bewitch the young men and make them love her.
 
Speaking of Webbtown, I was over in that part of the city a few days ago and had the pleasure of talking awhile with my esteemed friend and fellow citizen Devereaux Creech. He is 78 years old and is one of the seven men who were living in Goldsboro in April, 1861, and still living here. He has been a merchant all his life and has been one-armed ever since I have known him (over fifty years), but with one hand he can weigh and wrap up ten cents worth of snuff as quick as most men could do it with both hands. Webbtown was named for the late Silas Webb, known as "Boss," who settled over there away back in the early fifties, and lived there until the completion of the A. & N. C. R. R., then removed to Morehead City and afterwards represented Carteret County in the Legislature. There was only about a half dozen families over there then, but of late years, since it was taken in the corporate limits, it has grown rapidly and is now quite a village of itself and constitutes the Fourth Ward of the city. There is one peculiarity about the Webbtown voter; as a rule they all vote one way. 
The are slow to make up their minds,
But made up, they go it blind.
 
They are almost solidly Democratic and we used to call it the Tammany Organization, and Bill Sugg used to be known and respected as the John Kelly of the wigwam but for the past few years Bill, who is getting along in years, has not been so active in politics as he once was, but he is still an active member of one of the military companies. I remember during 1900, just before Aycock was nominated for Governor, of writing some verses on Webbtown and Bill Sugg, which ran something like this:
 
Webbtown whoops for Aycock
'Till it's give its throat a strain,
But gargled well with virgin dip
And is whooping fresh again;
And it's going to keep on whooping
'Till he get the right of way -Then go to voting and never stop

Until night of election day.
Webbtown claims him as her son,
And Webbtown's always right;
It can always be depended on
In a hard political fight.
For clear-cut, straight majorities,Old Webbtown beats the best;
Let the Chairman press the button
And Bill Sugg will do the rest.
 
Mr. W. D. Creech seems to be the Grand Sachem over there of late years and he makes a good one, judging from the way the voters still stick together. Webbtown is settled almost exclusively by laboring men, nearly all the employees of the Wayne Agricultural Works, the Goldsboro Oil Mills, the Enterprise Lumber Co., and the Goldsboro Furniture Factory residing there. There are four or five stores over there and two white churches. Any man who is "looking trouble" can always get accommodated when he reaches Webbtown and attempts the "bully" act.
 
I have had occasion the past week to go over the entire territory of the city and the outskirts beyond the city limits. There are certain sections that are building up right fast, notably in Park Heights quarter, and in West Goldsboro, or Borden's bottom, in the neighborhood of the new union depot. There is, too, considerable improvement being made to property in West Little Washington just outside the corporation. Edmundsontown, Bellevue, and Greenleaf all seem to be moving along, Mr. J. C. Bardin having just recently put in a grist mill at the latter place.
 
If Goldsboro and her suburban territory ever fills up, it ought to have a population of fifty thousand. Who knows but the voting for bonds on the 14th may set the ball rolling.
 
I was interested very much in reading the letter of Mr. Bill Bonitz in the last week's issue of the Record. Mr. Bonitz has a fresh memory of the stirring times from '61 to '65. The younger generation never will know the suffering and hardships borne by the soldiers in the field, and the women and children at home during that four years, nor the terrible devastation and heart-rending desolation that met the eyes of the paroled soldier when he returned. Pen nor tongue cannot describe it. It had to be seen and felt to be realized, and the humiliation and oppression that followed during the period of so-called reconstruction are so revolting to memory as to bring shudderings of horror to the stoutest heart when avenues of thought compel us to review them in retrospection. This with a knowledge and recollection of all these things, Mr. Taft says the South ought to vote the Republican ticket. 

I do not recall my having written anything of our graded school, that is getting old enough now to be written about. It was started in '79 or '80. I am not sure which. The first principal was Prof. E. P. Moses, who I believe is at the head of the graded schools in Raleigh now. I think there was five or six teachers and perhaps three hundred or three hundred and fifty pupils. Among the first teachers I recall now was Mrs. Humphrey, Mrs. Craton, Misses Mary Carroll and Olivia Millard. It was one among the first graded schools started in the state and has always ranked high. Dr. Curry gave it very high endorsement. The people of Goldsboro and the township have always taken much interest in the school. Soon after it was started, there was some trouble one year about the tax levy, and there was no tax paid that year for the school. The chairman of the board of trustees, the late Julius A. Bonitz, together with a few others who had always been workers for the school, made a canvas of the town and took subscriptions enough to keep the school going that session. Mrs. M. O. Humphrey is the only teacher who has been with the school from its first day to the present. Among the principals it has had were Professors Moses, Alderman, Howell, Joyner, the two Foust's, Brooks, and Woltz. The number of pupils have about trebled. Long may it live and prosper, for it has been the means of an education to scores of poor children who without it would probably never had much.
 
What a change fifty years has wrought! Of course, it is only we old people who can see and realize it. I am confident there were, if any, less than a half dozen daily papers in the State. The first I remember was the Wilmington Journal by Fulton & Price. I am not sure it was running as a daily in '59. I know it was in '61. The Weekly Journal, by Fulton & Price; the N. C. Standard, by W. W. Holden; Fayetteville Observer, by E. J. Hale; and the Charlotte Democrat. (I think it was called), by W. J. Yates, were the most prominent papers in the State, the Standard wielding great influence and did more to bring on secession than any other paper in the State.
 
In those days country people had to come many miles to the towns on Saturday to get their mail. There were very few country post-offices and these few had mails only once a week. The rural districts were but thinly settled. Some wealthy farmers would own two or three thousand acres of land, and the only persons living on all of these acres would be the family of the owner and his slaves. The latter lived in cabins built in a group not far from the "Big House." The death of a prominent person, or a crime might occur in one portion of the county and not be known for a week in another portion of the county. 

If one will compare these conditions with those of today, with telephone lines throughout the country, with rural delivery daily in every section, and wireless telegraphy at sea, the changes seem marvelous, and add to this the great increase in educational facilities, it seems like we would have an exceedingly intelligent, moral, happy and contented population; but such is not the case. Our court dockets are filled with cases for crimes and divorces and only this week I have seen young men who have just reach their majority, turned away from the registration books because they were unable to read and write, when for the past eight years they have had school facilities and been urged to prepare themselves for exercising the right of suffrage.
 
There is some excuse why we find middle-aged and old men who can neither read nor write, because in the long ago it was difficult for a poor boy to get even an old-field education, and I know where of speak; but with the advantages of today, there is no reasonable excuse that can be offered, and the young man who becomes of age now and is shut off from the ballot box has no one to blame but himself. I know of some young men who would not even avail themselves of the chance of registering under the Grandfather clause while they could do so. 

Writing last week of old man Dick Harrison, the Sunday fisherman, a friend has just told me of a joke that was played on the old man one Sunday while fishing. Some young fellows who were seeking fun, found out Dick's favorite fishing hole, which was in Little river on the opposite side from Goldsboro, not far from the Smithfield railroad bridge. On Sunday morning they reached the spot ahead of Dick, and one of them climbed up an overhanging tree where he usually sat to fish, taking up the tree with him a rock weighing four or five pounds, while the other secreted themselves in the bushes nearby, waiting for the fun. It was not long before Dick arrived and soon was drowning a worm, but for some reason the fish didn't bite, which irritated him to the extent that the began using language that you will not find in the Sunday School lessons of today, in fact he was just literally making the air smell brimstonish with this profanity. At this junction the man playing Zacheus dropped his rock in the river just about where Dick's cork with a mosquito hawk sitting on it lay still upon the water. The rock struck the water with a loud "ker chug." Dick's pole dropped from his hand he leaped into the water, striking about ten feet from the bank, and he crossed the river quicker than a gasoline launch could have done, and when he scaled the banks on the side towards home, he was in a run and he pulled for town in a bee line. Paying no heed to brooms edges, briar patches, or drain ditches, he came at a rate that would have left Miss Claytor's "White Streamer" far in the rear. His gait, if it had been along railroad track, would have made the telegraph poles look like a picket fence. Dick, in telling about it afterwards, said the only reason he did not come faster was because he could not fly. This distance covered was a long mile. He said he had no watch, but he thought he crossed the home base in about 2:18; that at any rate he ran so fast that the wind dried his clothing by time he reached home. But the scare did not last long; the joke was too good for the perpetrators to keep and Dick got on to it. The call of the river was too strong for him and he soon resumed his favorite avocation.
 
I was asked a few days since which was the oldest house now standing in Goldsboro. This was rather a stunner, and I had to ask for time to "think back" a while. Now, there has been a good many buildings in Goldsboro that were erected no doubt many years before those I shall mention, but they have been torn down or destroyed by fire. After ruminating over the matter, as the late Bill Arp was wont to say, I conclude that this aged distinction would lie between four houses that I shall mention. One of them is a small house on Walnut street, just below the residence of Fred C. Overman, the building, just sixty years ago, 1849, stood on the hill where the residence of Stephen W. Isler now stands, and had no appearance then of being a new house. Another is a small building on Chestnut street, just in the rear of the Arlington Hotel. This was there at the same date, 1849, and looked to be a newer house that the first mentioned, or it may have had a more recent coat of paint. This house at that time belonged, if I mistake not, to the late G. A. Powell, (Gus.) Another is the old double-story building that now stands on Boundary street, near the corner of James, and belong to S. W. Isler. It originally stood on James street. This is the building about which I wrote some weeks ago, known as the Battle house, and away back in the fifties reputed to be haunted. These other is a building that stood on John street, between Beech and Boundary, owned by J. B. Bradford. This building originally stood upon or very near the spot on which the old freight depot of the A. & N. C. R. R. stands. The depot was built in the summer of 1857, and the house referred to was removed to its present site some time (I don't know how long) before the beginning of work on that freight depot. It belonged to Mrs. Milly Langston, who, I think, was one of Waynesboro's first settlers and oldest citizens when it was the flourishing capital of Wayne county. 

There is, or was, another building that I have just thought of. I am not sure it still stands; if so, it probably belongs to Dock Smith or Jno. R. Handley. It used to stand in the grove near where the brick store occupied by James Handly now stands, corner Pine and James streets, and was known as the Coor house. Calvin Coor, who was once sheriff of the county, lived in and may have erected it. Just before the war it was occupied by Rev. W. C. Hunter, who was the Episcopal preacher here at that time. The road to Waynesboro ran close by the house. It looked to be an old house the first time I ever saw it, which is more than sixty years ago; and it is possible that it may be older than either of the four I have named, but, as stated, I am not sure it is still standing and occupied as a residence. And in those that are standing I will venture the assertion that the framing is sounder right now and will last longer from now than any wood building that has been erected in Goldsboro in twenty years, and I venture to assert further, that if examined, every sill in these buildings was hewed with a broad-axe; that none of them were sawed, nor the sleepers, and I doubt if the studding was. And I would not be surprised if old man Reuben Thompson did the hewing, for he was following that trade when I first knew him, more than sixty years ago. He lived in Goldsboro. 

The first military company I ever saw was in the Spring of 1858 at the big celebration held at New Bern in honor of the completion of the "Mullet" road. There was probably a half dozen companies there. Among them I remember the Hornets' Nest Rifles from Charlotte. It was a big affair. The N. S. R. R. ran a train through from Charlotte loaded full, consisting of eight or ten coaches, and the W. & W. R. R. did the same from Wilmington. New Bern was a small town then and could not begin to furnish accommodations to the thousands who were there. The railroad authorities had the coaches opened and hundreds slept in the cars. The bridge across Trent river was the longest bridge I have ever seen.
 
The summer of 1853 was the dryest ever seen in this section. There did not fall enough rain from the 15th of May to the 4th of July to wet a person. It looked like a famine was coming. Prayer meetings were held to pray for rain, and on the 4th of July it came. It was a trash-lifter - a regular young flood; and after all, very good crops were harvested that fall. I remember a joke that was told on Rev. Shade Pate at one of these rain prayer meetings. It was held at old Nahunta church. Quite a crowd of the faithful had met and were sitting around in the grove discussing the drought. Finally, one old brother said: "Well, brethren, we have met to pray for rain and I move that we go inside the church and begin:" and he called on Bro. Pate to open the meeting. Old man Shade rose up, cast his eyes around at the sky and said: "All right, brethren, we will go in and begin if you say so, but I will tell you right now it ain't gwine to rain until the wind shifts."And this reminds me of another story I used to hear on another Shade Pate who lived near where Greenleaf now is. I don't know what kin the two Shade's were, but presume they were some kin. There are five hundred Pate's in Wayne county, all good citizens, and I think they are all related. But to my story. It was away back in the late thirties, just after the W. & W. R. R. had been run past here. The trains ran very slow, but, using hand brakes only, it took quite a distance to stop them. Old man Pate, with his horse hitched to the cart, started to cross the track at a woods path opposite Greenleaf, and when the cart wheels struck the iron the horse balked and refused to pull across. This left the horse standing right across the track. Pate looked towards town and saw the train coming. He tried the horse again, but the animal refused to move. He dropped his bridle, took off his old hat, took his bandana from the crown and started meeting the train, waving handkerchief and hat and yelling: "Stop that thing! Can't you stop that hell-fired thing?" 

In writing about the election in 1848 in the county upon the question of removing the court house from Waynesboro to Goldsboro, which appeared in my article several weeks ago, I did not know then that the question had ever been submitted to the people before the time of which I wrote, but have since learned that it was voted upon in 1845 and defeated. Through the courtesy of my friend James M. Powell, I have been shown the official returns of that election. The paper on which the returns are written is a little yellow, but the writing is as plain as the day when written. The ink has not faded any in all these sixty-four years. The election was held on August 1st, 1845. Candidates for Congress from this district were voted for any candidates for Superior and County Court Clerks and Removal or No Removal. The Democratic candidate for Congress was James C. Dobbin, who was afterwards Secretary of the Navy in Pierce's Cabinet. A man named Haughton was the Whig candidate. W. K. Lane and Lemuel H. Whitfield were the candidates for Superior Court Clerk. John A. Green was the candidate for County Court Clerk. Benj. Aycock, while not running, received scattering votes. The following is the vote cast: Dobbin, 900; Haughton, 205; Lane, 652; Whitfield, 456; Green, 927; Aycock, 39; Removal, 117; No Removal 930. The voting districts were as follows: Waynesboro, Fork River, Boswells, Davis, Saulston, New Hope, Indian Springs, Buck Swamp, Cross Roads, and Black Creek. Of these districts only Fork, Saulston, New Hope and Indian Springs are now under their old names. Davis's was the section now known as Eureka, Buck Swamp was on the south side, in the Cogdell section. Cross Roads was at the Dr. Kirkpatrick place near Cox's bridge. Black Creek has since been cut off to form a part of Wilson county. I have not been able with any certainty to locate Boswell district. I wrote to my old friend W. R. Parker, at Raleigh, and he gives it as his opinion that it was part of the territory cut off with Black Creek, but my own opinion is that it covered the section running from Pikeville to the Johnston line, taking in what is now Buck Swamp, Great Swamp and Nahunta or Fremont. It will be seen that removal was unpopular, being beaten nearly eight to one, yet three years later, in 1848, it was carried, but I do not know by what majority. Goldsboro had been incorporated only a year when removal was first voted for. It was not out of its swaddling clothes, and had not had time to stretch itself and show its possibilities But it took only three years to show its geographical advantage over old Waynesboro. It was a mile from the river bank and not subject to overflow as Waynesboro often did, had better water, and a railroad running through it, and the N.C. R. R. had already been chartered and the papers of that date were full of the project for a railroad from the seacoast to the mountains, or, to use the language of that day, a road from Beaufort to the Tennessee line. All this had a tendency to help Goldsboro, and it began to fill up with a class of good citizens, and from then until now Goldsboro has had a gradual but steady growth. It has always been a healthy place and never has had an epidemic. We sometimes have a few cases of small pox, diphtheria and like disease, but they are soon over with. 
There is a great many cities that are proud and boastful of their location for one reason or another. New Orleans and Memphis for being on the Mississippi river; Louisville for being on the Ohio; Richmond for being the James; Baltimore on Chesapeake Bay; Wilmington on the Cape Fear; and so on. Now, Goldsboro lies within one mile of both the Neuse and Little rivers, and it is not ashamed of either stream, but we are not basing the progress we have made upon the fact that we are near these streams, for if the place had to depend upon them for its transportation facilities and its fish, it would be rather a lame and uncertain dependence. So we are not foolishly proud of either stream. But outsiders must not infer from what I have written that the people of Goldsboro are opposed to waterways, navigation, and water transportation; and there is one stream that all our citizens are proud of - it is the "Big Ditch." This popular stream has its starting point somewhere near the enterprising village of Greenleaf and runs from north to south through the entire length of the city. In its course through it is fed by the springs from Edmundsontown and the factory hills. After passing Park Avenue, the overflow from "Lake Weil" finds an outlet and adds its volume of water to the Big Ditch, while the water sheds of the eastern portion of the city contribute largely to its current in its slow winding flow to the Neuse, into which it empties one mile below the southwestern suburbs of the city. 
With a liberal expenditure of money the Big Ditch could be made navigable for nearly its entire length through the city. I mean, of course, for small craft. The Cruiser North Carolina could hardly ascend it, as at times, in case of drouth, its water runs low; but for light draught canoes it would be navigable nearly all the time. I have always felt a great pride in our Big Ditch, and this feeling caused me some years ago to write some verses commemorative of the Big Ditch, which I will reproduce here:
 
Some cities boast largely on what they have got,
And smile in derision on town that have not
So many find buildings, and men that are rich,
Goldsboro is not boasting, though it has the Big Ditch

Its banks are not covered with hickory and oak,
But a bountiful growth of jimson and poke;
On its slow-flowing waters swim the gander and drakeAnd the weeks that spring up form the home of the snake.
Four times it is spanned in its course through the town;
You can cross at each place when the bridge is not down;
Try which place you may, the near or the further,
You will wish before you cross you had gone to the other.
The children think the bathing as nice as can be
Like the River of Life, its waters are free;
'Tis a favorite resort for the kids of the town
But, unfortunately, the water is too shallow to drown.
And after a bath and children get back,
They are washed with Sapolio, to tell white from black;
The complaints of a mother are not very mild,
Who washes a dozen children to find her own child.
And after a rain and its bank overflows,
And the water recedes, it don't smell like a rose;
But still it has a charm to beguile and bewitch,
Goldsboro is not boasting, but is proud of the ditch.
 
I have read with interest my old friend Bill Bonitz's letter in last week's Record. He writes interestingly of that time. I did not witness the passing of the delegates to the Charleston Convention, and am glad he has given his recollection of what took place; but I will have to refresh his memory a little about two things he mentions. He says if the old registers of the Griswold and Borden hotels could be found, etc. He should have said Griswold and Baker hotels. Mrs. Borden had quit the hotel business several years before. Col. Baker was then running the house and sold out in the winter of '60 to T. A. Granger; the other is that J. B. Whitaker did not organize his company until the 15th day of April, immediately upon the fall of Fort Sumpter. I was among those who joined the company that day and left a 3 o'clock p.m. for Fort Macon.
 
I remember well when Moses, of South Carolina, came to Goldsboro and made his secession speech. There was other speeches on that day - one by young Schenck, who, after the war, became Judge Schenck, and was promoter of the Guilford Battle Ground Association. 
Benj. F. Butler, in the Charleston Convention, voted one hundred fifty-seven times for Jefferson Davis for President, and was one of the most prominent Democrats in Massachusetts, and had not developed then that hatred for the South that became such a ruling passion with him a year or two later, when he was in command at New Orleans, and issued his notorious order No. 28 in regard to the ladies of that place. And yet, as infamous as that order was, there arose in Goldsboro some years afterwards an apologist for Butler in an editorial that appeared in the "Goldsboro News," the following being an extract from said editorial: 
..."Aye, and from our first hearing of Ben's adventures with the ladies of New Orleans, we tied to him right away...And those who would reproach General Butler for his course in New Orleans knows but little of what belongs to either a soldier or a gentleman."
Butler lived a long time after the war and was a member of Congress, and I believe he was elected Governor of Massachusetts one term; but he was most cordially hated in the South, and his infamy and the name "Beast Butler" followed him to the grave.
 

I hope Mr. Bonitz will give us more of his war-time recollections of Goldsboro He was cognizant of much more that took place here during that four years than I was, for I spent only a few weeks here from April 15th, 1861 to January, 1865, when I was sent from Smithville to Goldsboro, on account of ill health, and was assigned to duty as clerk in Gen. L. S. Baker's office. I am sure there were many things that came under the eye of Mr. Bonitz that would be interesting to read. And there are others who could write along the line that I have followed in a way that all would enjoy reading, and I would be glad for some old citizen of the town or county to take it up.  
I have about run out of material and will very soon close, as I doubt whether events of a much later date than I have written of would be of much interest to many. Most people do not enjoy reading of things or a recent date that they are familiar with like they do of something that took place before their day and recollection.
 
When I began these reminiscences, I thought there might be twelve or fifteen columns of them. I expected to tell about all I could remember of the "old times" in that space, but I have stretched them out until more than twenty-five columns have been printed. And having exceeded so far what I first expected would be the length of them, the question has occurred to me if I was not in the position of a witness in court that I have heard of. He was put on the stand and gave his testimony. When through, the Solicitor asked him if he had told all he knew about the case then on trial, and the witness replied: "Yes, and a good deal more." 

I don't think I have done this, and think now if they were to write over again, I could enlarge upon almost everything I have written. In mentioning the names of the old citizens of the county which appeared in the early part of this writing, I could now give scores and scores of names that I have since thought of. I could name a few (but not many) more names of people who were living in Goldsboro at the beginning of the war; could give the street and residences of more of the citizens of the town than I did give; could give the names of more country churches and country preachers, and more of the political campaigns in the county; but perhaps I have given enough of all these. I have made a start along the line upon which I have written. I have tried to put the ball in motion. There are a few older men, both in the city and county, than I am, who, if they could be prevailed up, could write for publication their early recollections that I know well would be interesting reading, and thousands of our citizens would hail with delight such publication. A few years more and we old fellows will have "crossed over" and there will be no one to tell of the old-time people - who they were, their mode of living, and the good or evil they did. 
It is what is done and written about by one generation that becomes history for the next and following generations. I know full well that what I have written has not been as interestingly told as it could have been done by an abler pen. I don’t know that it has been read or proved of interest to very many persons; but quite a number of people have thanked me for it and said they had enjoyed it very much, and I am glad to know that they have. This knowledge repays me (and it is all I get) for the time I have spent in the work. I had the time - more of that than anything else. 

A history of Wayne County from its formation to the present, ought to be written; and I should be very glad to see the effort undertaken by some one who was fully competent for the work; one who has the time and patience for the research of old records necessary to make the early part authentic and old enough to write knowingly by personal knowledge and experience of the last fifty or sixty years. Such a book, well written, should be used by every public school in Wayne County, that the rising generation might know something of this history of the grand old county that they live in. A correct map of the county, drawn by a competent civil engineer, showing the lines of each township and the rivers and streams, pictures of public buildings, court house, jail, the different high schools and other public school buildings, might also find a place in it.

I believe that the County Commissioners might very properly make a liberal appropriation towards the expense of such a work, and it is probably that hundreds of our people would buy copies of it, which would go to increase the county appropriation.
 
This week will close my reminiscences, at least for the present. I may from time to time, as I find occasion, and some old time something comes to my mind, write more.
 
THE END

The booklet War-Time Reminiscences and Other Selections by J. M. Hollowell was contributed by Alton Parnell and digitized by Rita Korbach.  Printed with permission.

Other topics in this series:

About these writings and J. M. Hollowell - A Character Sketch
Some Early Recollections of Wayne County - But More Particularly of Goldsboro
Politics 1852 - 1861 
Early Residents, Soldiers, Railroad Workers, Early Churches

Coming of the Yankees
War-Time Reminiscences
More War-time Reminiscences: Fort Macon, April 21, 1862
Early History of Goldsboro

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