Nebraska History Magazine, Vol. X

Looking north across Pawnee Village Site Village and Republican river toward camp of American troops. May,1924.

Looking south from camp of American troops across Republican river toward Pike Pawnee Village. May, 1924.

The cemetery of this village is unusually large, covering acres of ground and showing excessive mortality, far beyond anything we have seen around other village sites. There are three departments of this cemetery, the women and children buried near the bottom of the bluff, the braves on the higher slopes and the chiefs upon the top of the hill.

The digging up of the graves and the exposure of the bones of these ancient Pawnees, in this cemetery, seem to have been a mania this summer, and scores of prospecting holes testify to many hunting for rare silver medals like Mr. Hill found. Methodical and scientific exploration, by competent and responsible parties, is all right; but the careless and indiscriminate desecration of even old Indian graves and the scattering of the skeletal remains of our original Americans is ghoulish and tends to a coarse disrespect for even the places of modern sepulture.

We noticed, in some of the exposed burial pits, the bones of two or three skeletons, large-sized men, showing that they had been hastily thrown in together and without due ceremony of Indian burials. This is another evidence of it being one of the large villages of the Pawnee Indians where half or more of them are known to have died from smallpox, that white man's disease, in 1832 and thereafter.

Through the kindness of Mrs. De Witt we were shown the fine collection of medals and relics found by Mr. Hill in the graves of some prominent chiefs. They are kept in the farmhouse, but should be in some fireproof building for safety. Among the collection are several heavy silver medals, beautifully engraved and in good state of preservation. It is a valuable array and must embrace about all the treaty and peace tokens ever given this branch of the Pawnee nation by the Americans, English and Spanish up to the time of the smallpox scourge. Among the collection we noticed one from George III, king of Great Britain during the American Revolution. It bore date of 1778; one was a very large silver disk almost twice as thick as a silver dollar and about five inches in diameter. It was from one of the Charles of Spain, and its date was 1787, I think. These medals show the wide influence and diplomacy of those nations in being able to reach this great tribe, away out here

The reason for the extensive burials at the Nebraska Republican Pawnee Site is the long occupancy of the village. This is shown by the fact that some graves antedate contact with white traders, while other graves have implements manufactured by the whites--Editor.
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in the heart of the American continent. No wonder our young republic had trouble with the Indians--who usually sided with the foreign powers.

Among the collection are some medals from the American colonies, with the circle of thirteen stars and other insignia, which shows that efforts were being made to check the foreign influence among our Indian tribes. Two embossed bronze sunflower badges, about four inches in diameter, attracted our attention, and several military buttons with soldier, cannon and pile of shells with the words "Artillery," "Regular," embossed thereon. There were also numerous pieces of money, coins of gold and other interesting relies.

But what does all this signify, to find the prized and sacred keepsakes of a tribe thrown into an Indian grave? Just this, another convincing proof of that awful smallpox era given to them by the whites--"the black devil out of the little bottle, uncorked to kill them all off"; and they wanted to get rid of all these gifts as "bad, very bad medicine"; and so, when they buried their chiefs, they tumbled into the grave medals, money, badges, flags, banners, prized military coats, keepsakes, charms and every sacred thing, "evil gifts from the whites," and the surviving remnant of the once strong Pawnee Republic fled to a new home many miles away upon the Loup fork of the Platte. It is said that this appalling disease was accidentally introduced among them by fur traders and whiskey sellers, and that over ten thousand of them died in a few months. It was the standing tradition among the Pawnees that these fur traders threatened them, that if they did not trade with them, "they would let the smallpox out of a bottle and destroy them."

It was never customary to inter with dead chiefs such rare relics as official medals of peace and friendship. While the chiefs carried them, such medals belonged to the tribe, and were the prized heirlooms and the very evidences of treaties and promises of the whites.

So all this proves that the Guide Rock, Neb., site was their "Gehenna in the Valley of Hinnom," where they met death, disease and disaster unspeakable; and all of this was twenty-five or more years after they lived and enjoyed the wonderful and inspiring environments of their Kansas homes, where Pike treated with them in 1806.

Mr. Hill found some circles on a hill some miles across the Republican river from his Pawnee village and had called them "rifle pits," thinking that they might have been dug by Pike's men when encamped during his stay near the village. We visited this spot and by boring in the center of several of the circles found the usual fireplace with ashes and cinders, and also some fragments of ancient Indian pottery. This proves beyond doubt that these rings and depressions were the circles of Indian houses, an ancient village which, from all appearances, antedates the Nebraska Pawnee village several hundred years.

These circles are probably the remains of an old Skidi or Arikara village and, while interesting, have no resemblance in form or otherwise to military rifle pits.

The place where Pike's soldiers camped, across the Republican from the village he visited, is on the bluffs above Republic City, and regarding which we will mention further on.

While the Nebraska Pawnee village on Mr. Hill's farm is an interesting study for the archaeologist, and its owner is showing commendable zeal in bringing it to light, our investigations prove it to be more modern than the Kansas site near Republic City, and it does not correspond by several days' travel with the distances covered by Pike in reaching the Pawnee Republic. As we will demonstrate later on, it would have been impossible for him to have reached the Nebraska site within his date September 25, 1800, even if it had existed at that time, which all evidences prove that it did not.

We spent some time at the site of the Pawnee Republic village, where the monument stands and which we think the evidence clearly establishes as the place Lieutenant Pike reached just 120 years prior to our recent visit. There is every evidence of it being the site of a once large and flourishing stronghold of the Pawnees.

It was divided into two parts, the upper and the lower town. The higher part covered many acres on the tableland of a promontory bluff and commanded a remarkable view up and down the Republican river and for miles away in almost all directions. It is a part of the upper town which is inclosed and where the monument stands.

We found that the improved and inclosed site of the village is only a small part of the area covered by that important Pawnee capital.

It also covered many acres down the slope to the river eastward, and probably a half mile further south, where the land has been cultivated for years, but where it is easy to find relics, and many have been found in days gone by.

The lower town was in the bottom between the foot of the bluffs and the river, a very much sheltered and protected spot, with abundance of timber and water at hand. There are also some springs, well up on the slope, which furnished drinking water, even for the upper town.

A large part of the village has been obliterated by cultivation; and the very tracts of ground where the Indians once raised their squaw corn, beans and squashes are now embraced in the cornfields of the white owners of to-day. Just across the half-mile road south of the monument, Doctor Zimmerman, in a few minutes search, picked up a perfect specimen of the iron hoes the Indian used--just like several that have been found in that neighborhood. They are commonly called "nigger hoes," having rather narrow blades and large eyes for good-sized handles. It is evident that at the time this village was occupied, iron and copper utensils and arrow points had, at least partially, taken the place of stone and flint artifacts.

Some have thought that Pike's remark in his journal, 'When we arrived on the hill over the town," was not applicable to this site, because the plainest part of it preserved in our inclosure and near the monument is on high ground itself. This is easy of explanation, for there was quite a part of the town upon the lower ground between the bluff and the river. One of the early settlers in that region says: "At the foot of the hill, in 1872 and for several years after, could be seen the marks left by the Indians, where they had their village. Their camp fires could

be located by the presence of coal mixed with earth, rock, broken pottery, pieces of cast cooking utensils, etc. Many of the larger trees showed the effects of the tomahawk. In some of the larger trees, in which cavities existed, were found the implements peculiar to the tribes of the early days; in one was found parts of an old flintlock musket and some rude lead bullets."

Pike could have been referring to this part. And then, in approaching the town from the south and west, as he did, he would be following along a broad higher ridge and could well have said, "When we arrived on the hill over the town," as he would be passing over a course many feet above the highest part of the town. He was passing along an old Pawnee trail which led directly to the village, and which was observed by first settlers of that region. Fortunately only a little of that part of the town which is inclosed by the fence has been cultivated and the order, size and shape of the many circles of the old ground houses are very plain and just as sometimes described, "resembling last year's circus rings." They vary in diameter from 20 to 40 feet and one is nearly 60 feet across; and it was probably an important council house.

These circles will last for ages, sodded over as they are and if explorers do not dig them up and level them down. There are plenty of circles outside the inclosure for some well-conducted and scientific exploration which might be done under proper supervision. On one side this was a fortified town and the ridge or line of thrown-up breastworks is still visible.

We found the fine granite monument in good condition. There are some breaks in the iron railing which should be repaired and painted. Some vandals have torn from the fence and broken one of the cast-iron tribute plates to the Johnsons.

This tract, deeded to the state of Kansas, is rectangular, sixty-four rods east and west and twenty-eight rods north and south, and contains exactly eleven and two-tenths acres. It is situated in the southeast corner of the northeast quarter of section three (3), township two (2) south, range five (5) west, Republic county, and is about eight miles north and two east of Courtland.

The west five acres of the tract, on the brow of the bluff and quite level, is the part inclosed by two iron railings of gas pipe on rather heavy ornamented cast-iron posts. The uninclosed six and two-tenths acres lie down the slope toward the Republic river.

It was a mistake that the entire tract was not inclosed, as it will likely lead to complications in course of time.

As long as Mr. and Mrs. Johnson, the donors of the site, were living, at their White Rock creek home, they looked after the grounds, more or less, owning the land on two sides of it. But since their death a few years ago the place has been neglected somewhat and deserves the attention of our Society.

Even it the entire tract is not fenced, the part now inclosed should be kept in order, and should be placed in the hands of some responsible custodian, preferably some one owning land and who would take an interest in its historical and archaeological importance.

I interviewed Mr. Joseph Erkenbrack, who lives near and owns the land on two or three sides, which includes a splendid grove on the river near the foot of the monument bluff and where he is improving a picnic, amusement and celebration park. He is interested in preserving the condition and integrity of the Pike Pawnee site and the improvements, placed there by this Society. and I think would make a good custodian. He promised to watch the property and keep explorers from digging up relics.

There should be a conspicuous sign at the site, forbidding all trespassing thereon under the penalty of the law. Our society should forbid all exploration within that inclosure, unless conducted by the Society itself.

The site is not on any well-traveled and improved highway. The public road on the half-section line bordering the property is not improved down the steep bluff to any east connection. The travel is compelled to use private property, including the unfenced portion, in winding down the hill, crossing the bottoms and the Republican river bridge to reach Republic City, two miles to the eastward. The connection of this road westward, with leading north-and-south highways, and with Courtland, is good. In time this road passing the site and monument will be improved, and it might be well for the Historical Society to take an interest in it, even to giving some financial help.

There is a good growth of prairie grass covering the inclosed site, which should be cut each summer, as it adds to the general appearance of the park and monument and brings the numerous circles into plain view.

The place where Pike established his camp during his two weeks' visit with the Pawnees was over the Republican river and in sight of the village, as he knew the Indians needed watching. Here is what he says under date September 26, the day after he arrived: "Finding our encampment not eligible as to situation, we moved down on to the prairie hill, about three-fourths of a mile nearer the village. We sent our interpreter to town to trade for provisions. About three o'clock in the afternoon twelve Kans arrived at the village, and informed Baroney that they had come to meet us, hearing we were to be at the Pawnees' village. We pitched our camp upon a beautiful eminence, whence we had a view of the town, and all that was transacting."

Lieutenant Wilkinson also states that they crossed the Republican river and camped. We visited the bluff, just back and above Republic City, which has always been reputed as Pike's camping place. It is a double-pointed bluff, with a small creek (Sand creek) on one side running to the river, and is exactly similar to the crude drawing on Pike's map on his military camp. It would give him a full view of the Indian town and of the movements of the occupants, at about two miles. It was a strategic spot, having the river between him and the village.

Some years ago, when the owner of this 'prairie hill" was breaking it up for cultivation, he struck the base of a pole probably the very flagpole which stood in front of Lieutenant Pike's tent, and from which the Stars and Stripes waved one hundred and twenty years ago this fall. It was a barren hill, not near the timber, and there was no improvement or fence around, and it was located just right on the hill to have been a part of his camp. This flagpole stump was found early in the seventies, or sixty-four years subsequent to Pike's visit, and we have seen the rotted stumps of Pawnee Indian ground houses, which were over 100 years old. Mr. Haney pointed out to us the place it was found, and he knew the man who found it. It would have been a fine relic, if preserved.

This place is just the "beautiful eminence" Pike describes and there was a convenient ford over the Republican river near

the present Republic City, down to Mr. Haney's day--who says that he often used it.

As late as 1899, and at the time the interest in Pike's Pawnee village commenced, there was an aged Pawnee woman living who was born there before Pike's visit and who, with other old members of the tribe living at Pawnee City, Okla., identified the Kansas village as the correct spot. From these elderly Pawnees it seems that it was one of their prominent traditions that a long time ago a body of mounted white men, riding upon fleet horses and with curious firearms and instruments, visited them, which was none other than the Spanish troop under Lieutenant Malgares. It was also handed down that afterwards a man came to them and insisted that they should raise the American flag over their town and that he had great difficulty in persuading them to do so. This, of course, related to Pike's flag incident, which would be indelibly impressed upon their minds and into the traditions of the tribe.

And as further evidence that the Kansas site is the true historical Pawnee village, I give the following letter from James R. Murie, a Pawnee Indian, who took an interest in the matter and made inquiries of the older members of the Pawnee tribe then located at Pawnee City, Okla., regarding the identity of the place. The letter was to A. B. Warner of White Rock, Kan., who had sent him pictures and descriptions of the location and its surroundings for his identification.'

This letter was furnished me by our E. D. Haney, of Courtland, and is here given:

Mr. A. B. Warner, Courtland, Kan.:
My Dear Sir--The letter and photos I have received and I thank you for them. I showed the pictures to some old warriors who recognized the river, and expressed their sorrowful feeling with only a gruff voice "waugh"--a word used in our language as sorrow; something they had owned once and was out of reach, as dead, gone from them. I have been working and asking questions of old people in regard to this village. There is one old woman who is now very old, who claims to have been three or four years old. I hope you and the rest of the people will be successful in getting the legislature to set it aside as a historical place. There is no question about the place, for I have often been told of it; of how a long time age some white people came there with horses and wonderful instruments, and how another man came, and what a hard time they had getting the Indians


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