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INFLUENCE OF OVERLAND TRAVEL ON THE
EARLY SETTLEMENT OF NEBRASKA

By H. G. TAYLOR

   [Paper read at the annual meeting of the Nebraska State Historical Society, January, 1912.]

   Surrounded with comforts of every description, nourished by a prosperity so prodigal that its resources seem exhaustless, conquering and successful, we of Nebraska are inclined to scorn the achievements of the past and claim for ourselves the credit of the accomplishments and high standing of our state. To be sure, there is reason for a vaulting pride. In point of educational efficiency Nebraska heads the list of states. In productivity of soils there is no state of the same area that is her superior, and in the intelligent treatment of these soils her citizens are abreast of the latest thought and method. In the number and quality of her horses, cattle, hogs and other live stock she finds a source of wealth and fame. In the character and prominence of her statesmen, educators and other leaders of thought she is unusually well favored. Pride in these things is pardonable because it forms the basis of a firm and enduring loyalty, but it should not be indulged to the point of forgetting that others besides ourselves are responsible to a large degree for this happy condition.
   While over a million of us here in Nebraska are enjoying the comforts and privileges of modern life, we should be reminded now and then that many of our blessings are the fruits that have ripened from the sacrifices, privations, labor and forethought of the men and women who first came to this country and caught the vision of its possibilities. We

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need to return now and then to the altar of the past and be endowed therefrom with some of the fire that burned in the hearts of the pioneers. Through all of their vicissitudes their courage remained undaunted, and their spirits mounted to the vision that eventually became a reality. In the face of almost insurmountable difficulties they left the indelible imprint of their plans and work on the history of Nebraska.
   It shall not be the purpose of this paper to smother the pioneers with fulsome flatteries, simply because they came here first. There is really no honor or distinction in having lived in one community for a long period of time.
   Indeed, such an extended residence may suggest the impious thought that it was necessary because the pioneer did not have brains and energy enough to move to some other place. We can claim no credit for entering this world because the advent was not due to our own volition. For the same reason we may stay in one locality simply because it is more comfortable to do that than to go to another. But if the old resident has worked faithfully, if he has had foresight and energy enough to improve the raw conditions, then his deeds are entitled to recognition. And there have been thousands in Nebraska who are deserving of remembrance at our hands.
   Little do we realize to-day, as we meditate complacently on the standing of our commonwealth, the dreary and for bidding prospect that faced the pioneers when they came here in the sixties and seventies. Where we see paved streets, verdant fields and beautiful trees, they saw only pathless prairies, shifting sands and buffalo grass. Where we retire each night to the security and comfort of modern homes, they went to bed beside the trail, in dugouts and sod houses, secure only in the knowledge that their safety depended on the whims and designs of bloodthirsty Indians. Where we travel in palace car and automobile, they traveled by ox team and horseback, spending tedious months in



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journeys that we accomplish to-day in hours. Where we talk to-day, with distant friends as soon as "central" can make the connection, they waited weary months on the occasional freighter and passing traveler. We see as much money in one month's income as they saw after a year's hard toil. We secure princely luxuries with less effort than it required for them to gain dire necessities. A vast contrast! you exclaim. Yea, verily, and the wonder increases when we recall that it covers less than fifty years of time.
   In view of what has been accomplished, we have a right to say that Nebraska was favored in the class of people who made the first settlement here, that they were above the average in intelligence, courage and general excellence. It took a certain degree of heroism to even contemplate getting here, to say nothing of staying here after the journey was completed. Only the virile, ambitious, hopeful ones would endure the hardships incident to a six month's overland journey through an uncharted wilderness, with no prospect at the end but years of sacrifice and privation. The gold seekers of 1849 were of this intrepid class. Bleaching bones from the Missouri river to California gave mute testimony to the stern nature of that journey. Nebraska profited from this move westward because it lay in the path of the fortune hunters and the California trail extended from one end of the state to the other. A few of these daring prospectors stopped in the state for one reason or another on the outward journey; and many of them, disappointed in their futile search for wealth in the gold fields, returned to Nebraska to assist in developing an agricultural industry, the products of which surpass in wealth the gold produced in any state in the Union. Other gold seekers hurried across the state to Colorado a little later and, finding the tales of the richness of the mines greatly exaggerated, returned to settle along the trail and establish homes. I need not dwell on the character of the



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Mormon empire builders who crossed the state in 1847. Regardless of what we think of their religion, we cannot but marvel at their splendid courage and constructive ability. They were builders and developers the like of which the world has not often seen. Like the others mentioned, their route led them across Nebraska, following what is now known as the old Mormon trail from Omaha and up the Platte valley.1 Few stopped on the outward journey, but many became dissatisfied with the life in Utah and, retracing their steps eastward, came once again to Nebraska, bringing with them their genius for development. They settled here and there along the trail and became thrifty and progressive ranchers and farmers.
   The first general movement westward began in the early sixties, and had it not been for the rude interruption of the civil war doubtless Nebraska would be ten years older in her development. In spite of the war, however, hundreds of prospective home builders found their way to the state during that decade; and among them were some of the sturdiest and most capable men the state has ever had. For example, J. Sterling Morton arrived in 1854. He was a man of power--brilliant, constructive and farseeing. His influence is still a factor in shaping the development of the state. Of course we remember him best because of his consuming ambition to make this a land of trees. How well he succeeded we need to travel but a few hours to determine. Arbor Day is observed not only in Nebraska but everywhere in the United States, and nodding trees throughout the land whisper gentle tributes to the man
   1The pioneer colony of Mormons marched from Winter Quarters (now Florence) by the Mormon road, along the north side of the Platte river; but continuous emigration passed over the Oregon Trail from its beginning at Independence and Westport, and also over the branches from their initial points on the Missouri river--at Leavenworth, Atchison, St. Joseph, Brownville, Nebraska City, Council Bluffs, and other points still farther up the river.--ED.



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whose enthusiasm and foresight did much to redeem the deserts and make the waste places habitable. It would come near the truth to say that he was the original conservationist. Undoubtedly there would have been many trees in Nebraska had J. Sterling Morton never lived, but his example and energy brought them sooner and in greater numbers than would have been the case had he not lived.2 Tree-planting is not the only service, however, for which Nebraska is indebted to Mr. Morton. As a politician and statesman he had ideals that were woven into the governmental design and that have an enduring permanence to this day. His honesty and frankness in political matters were unusual qualities in those days, and the "progressives" of to-day can draw upon his conception of public office with profit and advantage.
   Almost equally prominent with him was Robert W. Furnas. Mr. Furnas published the first agricultural paper in the state and always took a deep interest in its agricultural development. As we have indicated above, the state in those days was not very flattering in its promise of fertility and it took a man with a clear vision and much confidence to advocate improved methods and extensive farming. But, like other venturesome spirits who had been attracted by the call of the West, he had faith in the future, and eastern Nebraska particularly is indebted to him for his work in behalf of horticulture and agriculture.
   Typical of the genius for overcoming obstacles that was characteristic of the men who carved this kingdom out of a wilderness was the projection and construction of the Union Pacific railroad. While by no means a Nebraska enterprise, this great undertaking was identified closely with the development of the state, and the story of the
   2 An account of the origin of Arbor Day and of its influence on tree planting may be found in the third volume of the history of Nebraska, page 327.--ED.



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making of this great thoroughfare is intermingled with the settlement of the state. No project could have presented a more discouraging aspect. General Grenville M. Dodge, who made surveys for the course of the road, says that when he first saw the country west of the Missouri river it was supposed to be without natural resources or productivity, a vast expanse of arid plain. Tracts of shrubby sagebrush and tumbleweed wearied the eye with their ragged, endless monotony. High winds stripped the surface of the soil, and terrific wind storms drove clouds of dust about. One writer says that "scarcely a mile of the Pacific railroad was built without creating its story of courage, adventure and endurance. The history of the armed conquest of our national expanse is scarce fuller of romance than is that of its industrial conquests in the building of the railroads. As we see later, even this was a conquest, if not by arms, at least under arms." Every line had to be run within range of the muskets of guarding soldiers; there was not a moment's security. Men stacked their arms on new piles of earth and were ready at a moment's notice to fall in and fight for the territory they were sent to win.
   Handicapped by such obstacles, the men would have been justified in demanding a generous allowance for hasty work and faulty engineering, but they asked for no such consideration. On the contrary, their work was so well done that when a few years ago Edward Harriman commanded his engineers to shorten the Union Pacific line they found that modern engineering could improve but little on the route selected by the original engineers.3 The spirit that built
   3 Peter A. Dey was the first chief engineer of the Union Pacific railroad, and he established the eastern end of the line. General Dodge succeeded him in 1866 and directed, in the field, the greater part of the engineering work to the end of the line. Silas Seymour was consulting engineer during the whole period of construction, and his influence in the choice of the line was, no doubt, great, though the main practical responsibility was borne, doubtless, by General Dodge.--ED.



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the Union Pacific was the spirit that settled Nebraska. indeed, many of the very men who helped to build the one tarried to assist in the development of the other, lending their genius and courage to the making of a state.
   It was in the early seventies that the general settlement of the state began. Following the war the discharged soldiers, turning westward in search of homes, were attracted to Nebraska, and thousands of them arrived in a short time. No better citizens ever lived. Inured to hardships, schooled in discipline, abounding in patriotism, they had been tried in the fires of a mighty conflict and were fit subjects out of which to make a commonwealth. The majority of them were young men, and they had families. They came to make homes and there was nothing of uncertainty about their purpose. They were terribly in earnest; for they were without much means and their whole future depended on their efforts. They came largely in families, companies and a few colonies, which did much to create a home atmosphere from the beginning. It is not strange, therefore, that their first concern was to establish schools and churches. The experience, for instance, of Samuel C. Bassett, of Buffalo county, furnishes a striking illustration of this early desire for educational advantages. Mr. Bassett reached Buffalo county with a colony, April 7, 1871. At that time but four claims had been filed in the United States land office, and not an acre of railroad land had been sold. The county had been organized less than one year.4 The
   4 It is more accurate to say that Buffalo county was reorganized about a year before this time. The first territorial legislature passed an act, March 16, 1855, declaring that certain prescribed territory "is hereby organized into a county to be called Buffalo" and constituting Nebraska Center the county seat. (Laws of Nebraska 1-3 Territorial Sessions, p. 339.) In 1859 the territorial canvassing board counted the vote purporting to have been cast in Buffalo county for a delegate to congress; but in the ensuing contest at Washington the house of representatives threw it out on the ground that the county was not organized at the time of the election.



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families lived in the cars until they could build homes. On the 15th of April, 1871, before any members of this company had filed on homesteads, and while they were yet living in the cars, a meeting was held to consider the organization of a school district. On the 22d of April a meeting was held, school district officers were elected, and a tax voted to build a schoolhouse. Think of it! Within two weeks after the arrival of this little company of pioneers and before they had even commenced to erect homes of their own, even before they were certain that they would have homes, taxes had been voted to build a schoolhouse! And in less than three months a term of school began in the wing of a private house, just completed. Do you wonder that Nebraska is able to boast of the lowest percentage of illiteracy of any state in the Union?5 Is it surprising that the state is right in the forefront of all progress
The county voted at the congressional elections of 1860 and 1866, and at the provisional state election, June 2, 1866.
   At the eighth session of the territorial legislature an act was passed, December 31, 1861, constituting Hall, Buffalo, Kearney, and Lincoln, counties a legislative district. (Laws of Nebraska Eighth Territorial Session, p. 107.) At the eleventh session of the territorial legislature an act was passed, February 12, 1866, authorizing the probate judge of Buffalo county "to appoint all officers in said county necessary to complete county and precinct organizations", who should hold their respective offices until their successors were elected and qualified. The probate judge was authorized also "to demand and receive all the records . . . belonging to said county", and to keep them until the proper officers for their custody were elected and qualified. Thus Buffalo exercised distinct county functions intermittently from 1860 until its permanent organization in 1870. (Special Laws of the Eleventh Territorial Session, p. 710.) By the act of June 12, 1867, Buffalo county was placed in the third judicial district. (Laws of Nebraska Third Session, p. 50.) By the act of February 10, 1871, Buffalo county was attached to Hall county for judicial purposes. (Laws of Nebraska 1870-71, p. 195.) By the act of February 27, 1873, terms of the district court to be held in Buffalo county were appointed. (General Statutes 1873, p. 260.)--ED.
   5 The percentages of illiteracy in the three states having the lowest rate for the four decades ending 1880, 1890, 1900, 1910, are as follows: 1880: Wyoming, 3.4; Nebraska, 3.6; Iowa, 3.9. 1890: Nebraska, 3.1; Wyoming, 3.4; Iowa, 3.6. 1900: Nebraska, 2.3; Iowa, 2.3; Oregon, 3.3.



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in educational matters and that other states are demanding our educators as fast as we can produce them? Our standing in these things is not a matter of chance. It was determined by the men and women who had a passion for self-improvement and who laid a foundation so broad and deep that we could not overturn it if we would. To be sure, Nebraska is favored by many advantages in the way of geographical location, climatic conditions, soil fertility, transportation facilities and unlimited natural resources; but it took the vision, the foresight and the indomitable will of the pioneers to make them full measure of benefit. These little clusters of war veterans, with their families and friends, composed an influence that ramified into every part of the political, commercial, social and moral life of the community.
   It would be easy to cite other examples to show that in the play of the great forces that shaped the destiny of this nation Nebraska was favored as only one or two other states were favored; but we have indicated enough to show that Nebraska civilization grew from good seed, selected without a doubt by the great Agriculturist Himself and cultivated according to his eternal design.
   I cannot leave the subject, however, without turning my eyes for a moment from the past to the future. We must remember that the success of the pioneers depended almost wholly on the fact that they kept their eyes steadfastly to the front; and we will not be true to the spirit that dominated them if we do not follow their example. It is our duty to acknowledge the obligation we owe to the men and women who handed us an empire, enduring and glorious, which they had fashioned out of a wilderness, but their splendid example will be lost if we halt, contented
1910: Iowa, 1.7; Nebraska, 1.9; Oregon, 1.9. (Twelfth Census U. S. 1900, v. 2, Population Part 2, p. c; Thirteenth Census, 1910, Abstract With Nebraska Supplement, p. 245)--ED.



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with what has already been accomplished. Croly says, "All history is but a romance unless it is studied as an example." There is much of the desert to conquer yet, many streams to bridge, many schools to build, many farms to improve, many resources to develop, many wrongs to right and many problems to solve. The future has a challenge to strong men as compelling as any that came to the pioneers of fifty years ago, and it will be as rich as the past if we keep our minds open to the visions that they had and our hearts free to make them come true. In closing I am tempted to borrow a verse that the poet, Harry Kemp, has recently dedicated to Kansas, because it is expressive of the sentiments and aspirations of all loyal Nebraskans--

"Let other countries glory in their Past,
But Nebraska [Kansas] glories in her days to be,
In her horizons, limitless and vast,
Her plains that storm the senses like the sea:
She has no ruins grey that men revere--
Her time is Now, her Heritage is Here."


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