Tales of Ghostly Step, Secret Caves Embellish Aged Manor of the Genesee
By Mary Nash
John B. Church, financier, friend of
Washington and relative by marriage of Alexander Hamilton, built “Belvidere” 136 years ago in virgin forests previously owned by Robert Morris, financial mainstay of the American
Revolution. In the old days, many of the nation’s great men were guests there. Here, Mary Nash gives the interesting history and background of the all but forgotten estate and its
gracious old mansion on the Genesee River near Belfast.
On the Bank of the Genesee River near
Belfast, forgotten by the world, amid towering hemlocks and neglected gardens, stands a stately, white-pillared manor house of time-mellowed stone and brick, constructed by a man who
helped build the nation.
It was 136 years ago that John B. Church,
financier, friend of Washington and relative by marriage of Alexander Hamilton, erected the summer home he named “Belvidere” in the virgin forests previously owned by Robert Morris,
financial mainstay of the American Revolution.
Belvidere has been owned by the Church
family, whose history has been closely linked with that of the state and nation, by the late Fred B. Keeney of Warsaw who maintained a famous Jersey stock farm on the estate and by the
late Snyder Hoxie Clark, wealthy New Yorker, whose summer home it was.
In the old days, many of the nation’s great
men were guests at the gracious old mansion, Belvidere then and since has been a hospitable place whose owners have enjoyed entertaining friends.
The present owners, daughters of the late
Mr. and Mrs. Clark – Mrs. Albert W. Lind of Brookline Mass. and Mrs. Allen Gurganious of Palatka, Fla. have not lived at Belvidere for years. The old home has been closed for ten years,
except for a few rooms in one wing, which are occupied by the elderly caretaker and his family. Most of the 1300 acre estate is rented as a farm.
“Ghosts” and “Secret Tunnels”
Still a place of rare charm and beauty
despite disrepair, Belvidere today looks out over the river and the fertile meadows and pleasant hills of the Allegany countryside and lives in its memories.
There are, of course, strange stories about
the manor, stories of ghostly footsteps in the night on the long, narrow, pillared veranda at the rear of the house on the river side; of secret tunnels from the cellar to the river bank,
perhaps intended for use during Indian raids; of slave cabins back in the hills.
Writers have become interested in Belvidere
in recent years, but an Evening News reporter was the first to go through the house, by special permission of Mr. and Mrs. Lind.
The dignified caretaker who acted a guide
on a tour of the high ceilinged, dusty rooms was Delos Addison Van Campen, grandnephew of the famous Moses Van Campen of Revolutionary times, border man, Indian fighter and friend and
business associate of Phillip Church, John’s son. Mr. Van Campen came to the manor in the Clark regime.
Belvidere has 13 fireplaces. Over the one
in the former land office in the wing, where the caretaker’s family lives now, John Church’s dueling pistols once hung. They were loaned by him for one of history’s most famous duels –
that in which Alexander Hamilton was fatally wounded by Aaron Burr, July 11, 1804, in Weehawken, NJ.
Pistols Now Owned by Bank
The late Richard Church, a major of the old
militia days and last of the Church owners, who lost Belvidere under foreclosure in 1892, had the pistols at the time of his death in 1911. Their whereabouts today is probably generally
unknown. Few persons know they are in the possession of the historic old Bank of the Manhattan Company of New York City, 40 Wall Street.
Answering an inquiry by the News, O. G.
Alexander, assistant vice president of the bank, said the pistols were purchased in 1930 from Mrs. H. E. Gilpin of Cleveland, Major Richard Church’s daughter and John B. Church’s
great-granddaughter.
Explaining the bank’s acquisition of the
weapons, Mr. Alexander wrote: “Aaron Burr was among the founders of the Manhattan Company (one of the bank’s parent companies), and we thought the pistols would have a historic value and
should be in our museum. Since purchasing them, we have just kept them under cover and have not publicized them in any way.” (NOTE: Chase Manhattan Bank commissioned copies of the pistols
for the 1976 bi-centennial celebration in limited edition.)
Church was an Englishman who became
interested in early American politics, came here a “John Carter,” became intimate with leaders in the Revolutions and aided financially in founding the new republic. He and Secretary of
the Treasury Hamilton married daughters of Gen. Philip Schuyler, Revolutionary hero and statesman and Washington’s trusted adviser. John married Angelica and Hamilton Elizabeth.
Elected to Parliament
After establishment of the new government,
John Church took his family to Europe for a period, living in Paris and England. He joined Charles James Fox in an unsuccessful attempt to help Lafayette, his friend of Revolutionary
days, escape from prison, financing the escape plot; he sheltered Tallyrand in his home in England after the outbreak of the French Revolution, and in 1794 when Tallyrand was threatened
with arrest, furnished funds for his escape to America.
Fox, Edmond Burke, and William Pitt were
visitors at his English home. Despite his anti British activity in the Revolution, he was elected to Parliament. His son, Phillip, named for Grandfather Philip Schuyler, attended Eton
and studied law in the Middle Temple, London.
The Churches came back to New York City in
1797, bringing their French cook, a man named Godey, whose son late founded Godey’s Ladies Book.
Mr. Church’s old friend, Morris, who had
become the largest individual landholder in the United States, borrowed a large amount of money from him, around $80,000, giving property in Philadelphia as security. As Mr. Church was
not a citizen, the mortgage was taken by Hamilton as trustee.
Morris later effected a change of security
to the 100,000 acres in the Genesee country. A few years later came the foreclosure sale in Canandaigua. Phillip, who had served on Washington’s staff after the war, had been private
secretary to his Uncle Alexander and been appointed captain of infantry in the provisional army in John Adam’s administration. He went to the sale and bid in the property May 6, 1800. He
bought the property on joint account with his father, who offered him half interest to assume the management and subdivide and sell the land in the vast tract.
Angelica Named for Mother
Capt. Church and Major Van Campen explored
the forests, following Indian trails. In the center they chose a site for a village. The captain named it Angelica, for his mother. About 2000 acres were set aside for a farm and in
1804, the year of the Hamilton-Burr duel; Capt. Church built a temporary home known as the White House. It was said to be the first painted house in Western New York and one of the first
fame houses in this part of the state. It was blown down about 100 years later.
The year after the White House was
completed; the captain married Anne Matilda Stewart, daughter of Gen. Walter Stewart of Philadelphia and brought his bride to the wilderness home.
While visiting their son, John and Angelica
decided to have a summer home on the farm, and in 1810 built Belvidere. The original house was the center section of the present home. Building materials were obtained in the vicinity –
native stone, brick made on the estate, timbers from trees in the surrounding woods, sawed by hand with a pit saw. It is said slave labor was used in making the brick and constructing the
buildings. Belvidere’s two foot thick walls still stand firm and sturdy.
Old Tiles Still in Fireplace
The dining room fireplace was set with
brown and cream glazed tiles, reported to have been brought from Holland, showing scenes from Walter Scott’s novels, each inscribed with the subject of the illustration and name of the
book from which taken.
The center tile in the top row showed
ravens, representing “Ravenswood” family seat in the “Bride of Lamermoor,” and bore the inscription from the Latin, “Providebit Dominus.” The old fireplace and tiles are still intact.
A long, sloping topped desk in the old
office is said to have been once used by Washington, but no one knows.
Still hanging from the ceiling of the
drawing room is the handsome crystal chandelier, which is said to be an original decoration, its pendants sparkling in the dusty room when a sunbeam finds its way between the faded
draperies of the deeply recessed windows.
John Church didn’t enjoy his new home many
years. He returned to London in 1816. Two years later he died and was buried there. Philip, who had become a judge of the Court of General Sessions of the Peace in 1809, added the
wings, the east wing housing the land offices and the west wing including a first floor nursery – the present library.
The house is probably much as it was in the
old days. It is still without electricity or gas; kerosene lamps and candles furnish light.
Bathrooms Numerous
The numerous bathrooms are one of the few
concessions to modernity. The big kitchen fireplace was blocked up years ago, but those in the living rooms and most of the bedrooms remain. A number of the bedrooms have small adjoining
sitting rooms and bathrooms.
Practically all the Church furnishing were
disposed of by Major Church, but the present ones include numerous antiques collected by the late Mrs. Clark, which preserve the manor’s old time spirit.
There is a magnificent mahogany four poster
bed, canopied in rose brocade, its posts thickly carved with roses, narcissus and pineapples, and a basket of flowers carved into its headpiece. In another room is a mahogany four poster
bed with slim squared posts, its parts joined with wooden pegs. There’s a fine grandfather clock in the wide entrance hall and a desk made from an old melodeon.
The white corner cupboards in the maroon
papered dining room contain antique picture plates, some with 1793 dates. Tall iron floor stands for candles are in the downstairs rooms. In a bedroom is a brass warming pan.
Out in the carriage house are a low,
brightly painted sleigh dating back to the early days of the last century or before, its once gay yellows and blue now fading, and two ancient carriages.
Responding to an inquiry from the Evening
News, Mrs. Lind wrote:
“When we were small children we were told,
when we went riding in one of the old sleighs, that it had belonged to Washington…however, I’m inclined to take some of these tales with a grain of salt.” But maybe the tale was true.
The Angelica Library has many of the old
Church possessions, including the original Church library, the plans for the house, portraits and letters.
Became Farm for Jerseys
Judge Philip has been credited with doing
much to raise the standards of livestock breeding in Western New York and Pennsylvania.
He became with improved breeds of sheep. A
flock of 24, driven to his wilderness home in 1805, was practically wiped out by wolves the first night. Later, the judge bought a Merino buck, imported from Spain. He also introduced
improved breeds of cattle. His son, Major Richard, continued with cattle breeding, specializing in shorthorn Durham.
Mr. Keeney, who bought the estate in 1892,
raised purebred Jersey’s and Mr. Clark, who purchased it in 1909, continued with that breed.
The old judge did more than raise
livestock. He had roads built through the area, was one of the first to urge construction of the Genesee Valley Canal and worked for years to bring about the New York and Erie Railroad.
It was a big event for him when, in 1851, completion of the railroad was celebrated. An excursion train brought President Millard Fillmore, Daniel Webster and other national figures to
Belvidere Station, named after the manor.
The Judge died in 1861, at the age of 83,
and was buried in the Angelica Cemetery beside his wife and near his old companion, Maj. Van Campen. His son, Richard, eighth of nine children, outlived all the others. He died in 1911
at the Rochester home of his son in law and daughter the Rev. and Mrs. E. P. Hart.
Mrs. Clark, a native of nearby Scio, died
about ten years ago, and her husband two years ago. As to the future of historic Belvidere, the present owners are uncertain. Possibly they will sell it.
Charley Whitcomb Knows
“Naturally, we love it” Mrs. Lind wrote,
“But it has been impractical for us to live there since we were married.”
Anyone in the section who knows you are
interested in the old Church place or the Church family will suggest: “Why don’t you go to see Charley Whitcomb?”
Mr. Whitcomb, a twinkling eyed, 80-year-old
widower, lives along on his Belmont farm in a house crowded with his collection of old clocks, violins and guns. His father, Hale Whitcomb, was Maj. Church’s overseer for many years, and
Charley Whitcomb practically grew up on the Church estate.
Mr. Whitcomb takes little stock in the
tunnels story.
“Those tunnels are just an old potato
cellar” he grinned.
Some don’t agree with him. However, the
Churches apparently had little to fear from the regions Indians. The judge’s wife had won their hearts while here husband was on a trip to England by accepting an invitation to their New
Years feast in Caneadea and spending a night in a village wigwam. The Senecas adopted her as a daughter and were her friend to the end of her life.
At the time of the Battle of Lake Erie,
knowing the judge was away, the Caneadea chief, Shongo and a party of his warriors rushed to her home to protect her from possible British attack.
The slave cabin reports Mr. Whitcomb
says, are true.
He laughs off some of the stories about
Belvidere with the remark, “You can’t believe all you hear,” But he recalls that an elderly woman who worked at Belvidere for years told his mother: “There are footsteps in this place that
no human is accountable for.”
Has Heard Footsteps
Another person who remembers the Church
regime is 85-year-old Mrs. Mary Gleason of Belfast, who worked for Major and Mrs. Church at Belvidere for 12 years.
“The Churches used to go riding in an open
sleigh with robes in winter, and every afternoon they would invite one of the help to come for a ride,” she said. “They entertained a great deal. Visitors were coming from New York City
all the time… it was like a hotel. Often they’d all go to the Wadsworths’ in Geneseo for hunting….
There may be nothing to the tunnel idea,
Mr. Van Campen says, though he found a soft spot in the cellar floor and when he pushed an iron bar in, it went through; and there was a soft spot on the lawn, too, under some bushes.
As for the footsteps, he said he and others
have heard them. He doesn’t believe in ghosts and is sure there must be some un ghostly explanation, but he can’t figure it out. He has not heard them lately; he said, but a few years
ago, “every night at 10 o’clock we’d hear step out on that long rear veranda. We’d go out and no one would be there.”
“One night when the steps began, two of us
went out the front entrance with dogs, one going one way and one the other, circling the house to the veranda,” he continued. “We didn’t see anyone or anything. The dogs acted as if they
thought the whole thing had been planned for their fun, and apparently didn’t scent anything unusual….it’s a strange thing.”
But to an outsider reviewing the early
history and associations of the old manor house, it would almost seem strange if ghostly feet did not sometimes pace Belvidere’s pillared porch when the moonlight sifts through the tall
hemlocks on the river bank.