History of the Pacific Northwest
Oregon and Washington 1889
Volume I
Page 34 - 38

Copyright 2000 - 2003 - Janine M. Bork
 This page is part of the  Union County, OR AGHP

CHAPTER VI.
(1776 - 1779.)

Great Britain Turns Attention to Discoveries on the Northwest Coast of America - Voyages of Captain James Cook - British Assertion of Claim to Discovery by Sir Francis Drake of New Albion - Captain Cook Denies Existence of Strait of Fuca - Murder of Captain Cook, Succeeded in Command by Captain Clerke - Death of Captain Clerke - Lieutenant Gore, a Native of Virginia, in Command - Sails to China with Collection of Furs - Growing Importance of Fur and East India Trade.

SINCE the cruises of Drake and Cavendish in the latter part of the sixteenth century (1579 - 1587), preying upon Spanish commerce upon the Pacific Ocean and pillaging defenseless cities on the coast of Mexico (to neither of which can be attributed meritorious claim as voyages of discovery or exploration), Great Britain, absorbed with the establishment and government of her Atlantic colonies, had not participated in the development of the geography or resources of the western coast of North America. That nation now zealously entered the field, resolved to compensate for past indifference and inactivity.

     On the 6th of July, 1776, that greatest of geographers and circumnavigators, Captain James Cook, was placed in command of two ships, the Resolution and Discovery. His instructions were to make his way to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence by way of New Zealand and Otaheite, and, having refreshed his crews, to run directly for the Pacific coast of North America. "You are to fall in with the coast of New Albion in latitude forty-five degrees north. You are to put into the first convenient port to recruit your wood and water, and then to proceed northward along the coast as far as to the latitude of sixty-five degrees north or further, if not obstructed by land or ice, taking care not to lose any time in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any other account until you get into the before-mentioned latitude sixty-five degrees north, where we could wish you to arrive in the month of June." "On his way thither (to New Albion) not to touch upon any part of the Spanish dominion on the Western continent of America, unless driven to it by some unavoidable accident, in which case he was to stay no longer than should be absolutely necessary, and to be very careful not to give any umbrage or offence to any of the inhabitants or subjects of his Catholic Majesty (Spain); and if in his further progress northward he should find any subjects of any European prince or state, upon any part of the coast which he might think proper to visit, he was not to disturb them or give them any cause of offence, but on the contrary to treat them with civility and friendship."

     In the summer in which Cook was to reach Northwest America, the British Admiralty, dispatched Lieutenant Young in the brig Lion to the western coast of Baffin's Bay on the Atlantic side of the continent, with instructions to reconnoiter the west shore of that bay and find if there was any westward passage therefrom, with a view to co-operate with Captain Cook, who, it was supposed, would be seeking for such a passage at about the same time from the opposite side of America. If both succeeded, there would be a likelihood of their meeting, and the place, it was conjectured, would be in a sea to the north of the continent of North America.

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                                                                                                    VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN  JAMES COOK.                                             35

     These instructions of the Cook expedition of 1776 are full of interest. They exhibit the thought of that age, the standpoint in that eventful year, of progress in geographical knowledge. The most enlightened scientists, the best informed as to lands and seas which had been theretofore visited by navigators, continued to regard as probable the existence of the Strait of Anian, or, to speak more accurately, a passage across the North American continent from ocean to ocean. To verify such theory or forever dispel it, England now sent her most intrepid sailor, the foremost scientific navigator of the world, on that memorable voyage. In a political view, these instructions are of still more weighty import. England for the first time had announced her interest in a region on the Pacific coast now nominated New Albion. That nation had elevated a piratical cruse to a voyage of discovery, upon which is indicated basis of intention to maintain territorial claim. The policy is clearly foreshadowed, that, by a private piratical venture made two centuries before, national right has accrued to occupy the coast which Drake called New Albion. Nor is the very important concession of rights based upon discoveries unuring to Spain and to Russia, less worthy of notice, especially to the former power, regarding the territory south of forty-five degrees north. Still, whether as to Spain or any other nation, it is apparent that thenceforth English claim by right of discovery is assumed to have attached north of forty-five degrees north latitude, by virtue of the piratical cruise in 1578 of Sir Francis Drake.

     Captain Cook sailed from Plymouth, England, July 12, 1776, in the ship Resolution, accompanied by the Discovery, Captain Clerke. George Vancouver, whose name shortly subsequent became identified with these regions as its first thorough explorer, was a midshipman on Captain Cook's ship. Having visited the group of islands to which he gave the name of Sandwich, in honor of his patron, the Earl of Sandwich, First Lord of British Admiralty, from thence, on the 18th of January, 1778, Cook sailed northeastward, and upon the 7th of March, in latitude forty-four degrees, one minute, two second north, came in sight of the Pacific coast of North American. Adverse winds forced his ship southward to forty-three degrees north, when he again headed northward, but thick weather prevented tracing a continuation of the coast; so that between Cape Foulweather, forty-four degrees, fifty-five minutes north, and Cape Flattery, forty-eight degrees, fifteen minutes north (both so named by Captain Cook), the expedition obtained but few glimpses of the coast. The latter-mentioned cape was the Point Martinez of the Spanish charts, named in honor of the pilot of Perez, who discovered it in 1774. Cook gave it the name of Flattery because the prospect of land near it had given the doubtful promise of a harbor.

     The distinguished geographer afterwards Admiral Burney, who was in the Discovery, says: "We were near Cape Flattery on the evening of the 22d of March; and a little before seven o'clock, it growing dark, captain Cook tacked, to wait for daylight, intending to make close examination; but before morning a hard gale of wind came on, with rainy weather, and we were obliged to keep off the land."

     Both ships at the time needing repairing in the lower rigging, and a resupply of water, compelled the seeking of a port. Cook stood away in the night and failed to see the entrance of the Strait of Fuca. So failing to find it south of forty-eight degrees, he denied its existence. On the 29th of March, the vessels arrived at Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound (the Port San Lorenzo of Perez). Cook named it King George's Sound; but the native name has adhered to it. Here they remained at anchor until the 26th of April, when they set sail for the northward, and during the remainder of that season made a



36                                                HISTORY OF PACIFIC NORTHWEST - OREGON AND WASHINGTON.

thorough examination of the northwest coast of American, the northeast coast of Asia, passed through and determined the breadth of Behring's Strait, sailing as far north as seventy degrees, forty-four minutes north.  He made an extended examination of the Arctic Sea, in which he sailed in both directions until his further advance was prevented by ice. Then, turning southward, he carefully surveyed the Aleutian group of islands. On the 7th of October, whilst anchored in the harbor of Sanganoodha, John Ledyard of Connecticut first gave evidence of the enterprise and daring which later in life rendered him so famous as an intrepid traveler. He was corporal of marines in the Resolution. Captain James Burney, the distinguished chronologer of "Northeastern voyages of discovery, and the early navigation of the Russians," thus narrates the incident.

     "A present of salmon baked in rye flour, accompanied with a note in the Russian language, was delivered to each of the captains, brought by two natives of Oonalaska from a distant part of the island. Ledyard volunteered to return with the messengers to gain information. Captain Cook accepted his offer, and sent by him a present of some bottles of rum, wine and porter, and a wheaten loaf, with an invitation to his 'unknown friends.' Ledyard embarked in a small baidar, which was a light skeleton wooden frame covered with whale skin. It was paddled by two men, for each of whom there was a circular opening in the upper part of the baidar to admit of their being seated; and the lower end of their skin jacket or frock was then closely fastened to the rim of the opening to prevent the entrance of water, and they appeared, as it were, hooped in. There was no opening for their passenger Ledyard; and previous to their both being seated he was obliged to dispose himself at his length, or, as seamen might express it, to stow himself fore and aft, in the bottom of the baidar between the two. The length of the voyage performed by Ledyard, pent up in this slight bark, I understood to be twelve or fourteen miles. At the end of two days he returned to the ship, being better accommodated in his voyage home than out, and in company with three Russian traders. These and other Russians who came to us afterwards communicated their charts, which gave information concerning many islands in this sea. They also mentioned that an expedition had been made in the icy sea with sledges, in the year 1773, to some large islands opposite the river Kolyma."

     Shortly subsequent, as Captain Burney states, Captain Cook left Oonalaska for the Sandwich Islands as a place of refreshment for the ship's companies, and where the stock of provisions could be recruited to enable him to undertake another expedition to the north.

     "The ships reached Owyhee, the largest of the Sandwich group, late in November, remaining near it until the middle of January, 1779, - all the time under sail, having found no convenient anchorage. In the meantime they had discovered a number of small islands of the same group, adjacent to Owyhee. The natives in canoes had daily visited the ships, bringing provisions. On the 17th of January, a bay on the west side of Owyhee, named Karakokooa, was discovered, in which the ships were anchored. Captain Cook desiring to examine other islands of the group before sailing northward, sailed from the Bay of Karakokooa on the 4th. On the 8th, while yet in sight of Hawaii, the foremast of the Resolution was ascertained to be so defective as to require immediate repair. As the other islands had afforded no good harbor, Captain Cook returned to Karakokooa Bay, in which port he again anchored upon the 11th. His return occasioned great dissatisfaction to the natives, which they manifested by numerous petty annoyances. On the night of the 13th the cutter of the Discovery was stolen by them. Captain Clerke being too ill to go ashore,



                                                                                                MURDER OF CAPTAIN COOK.                                                                            37

Captain Cook in person visited the native King, Terecboo, and demanded the return of the stolen boat. The programme was that the King should visit the ship, and be detained on board until the restoration of the property. Terecboo had accepted the invitation to return to the ship with Captain Cook. Directions had been given to the crews of the guard-boats not to interfere with the small canoes, but to prevent the departure of any large boat from the bay. This order was intended if necessary to make reprisal, and thus force the return of the ship's stolen cutter. While the King was waiting, ready to accompany Captain Cook to his ship, a large canoe attempted to pass out of the bay. She was ordered by the guard-boats to return; but, continuing on her course, the crew fired over her to bring her to. This shot unfortunately killed one of the native chiefs. One of King Terecboo's wives, learning of the catastrophe, rushed up to the King, and with wails of lamentation clung to him and prevented his getting into the ship's boat. Captain Cook, who had hold of his hand, now left him and walked toward his boat to return to the ship, as there was too much excitement to accomplish any settlement. The natives surrounded him; and, in the struggle, Captain Cook and four of his men were killed."

     Thus ignobly perished the illustrious James Cook, of whom it was justly said: "No other navigator extended the bounds of geographical knowledge so widely as he did." HIs surveys and determinations of latitude and longitude are extremely accurate. He introduced and practiced a system of sanitary regulations preserving the health of the crews, and thereafter removed the dread which had till that time attached to long voyages. "Along the northwest coast of America he effected more in one season than the Spaniards had accomplished in two centuries. Besides rectifying many mistakes of former explorers, he ascertained the breadth of the strait which separates Asia from the New World, - a point which Behring had left unsettled. Passing the Arctic, as he had crossed the Antarctic circle, he penetrated farther than any preceding navigator; and as more than half a century had expired without a nearer approach being made to the southern pole than he had achieved, a like period elapsed before our knowledge of the American coast was extended beyond the point which he had attained." He forever exploded the theory of the Strait of Anian or the existence of any northwest passage across the northern part of the continent of North America. His labors created a new era in geographic science. Not content with discovering new continents, islands and seas, he delineated the figure of their coasts, and determined their latitude and longitude with an accuracy which the appliances of modern discovery and improvement have only verified.

     On the death of Captain Cook, the command devolved upon Captain Clerke. The ships continued among the Sandwich Islands until the middle of March, when they sailed north, anchoring at Awatscha Bay, April 30th. The expedition arrived in Behring Strait, July 5th. They passed through the strait, and reached the latitude of sixty-nine degrees, twenty minutes north; when, being hemmed in by floating ice, their farther advance to the north was defeated. On the 27th, all further attempt was relinquished, and the ships bent their course southward, repassing Behring Strait on the 30th. On the 23d of August, two days before reaching Petropaulovski, Captain Clerke died. Lieut. Gore, a native of Virginia, succeeded to the command. The season being too far advanced to attempt any farther northward exploration that year, it was deemed advisable to suspend operations. The expedition therefore sailed for China, reaching Canton in December. The arrival at Canton of the Resolution and Discovery, with a small collection of furs from the northwest coast of America, demonstrated the great avidity of the Chinese for their purchase. So anxious were that people to acquire them, that they were ready at almost any sacrifice to



38                                    HISTORY OF PACIFIC NORTHWEST - OREGON AND WASHINGTON.

exchange the wares and commodities of the commerce of their own country. As a direct consequence of this visit of Lieut. Gore to China, a new feature of the fur and East India trade was developed, vastly increasing its profits and importance. The enterprise or method of trade to be inaugurated was the collection of furs in Northwest America, their transportation to China, there to be exchanged for silks, teas and other China goods, and products, which in turn were to be shipped to Europe. This result, flowing directly from that memorable voyage, which added to the accurate information of the North Pacific coast and fur-producing countries, revolutionized Pacific commerce, and the trade with China and the East Indies. A new element had been interjected. The impetus given to the fur trade by the market in China and the East Indies, and the necessary expansion of Chinese commerce, may well be regarded as among the most important of the many benefits which resulted from the third voyage of the world's greatest circumnavigator. The northwest coast of America became the field to which European nations turned their attention.

     This voyage is notable because of its distinguished leader and his tragic fate. The programme exhibits the first avowal that the value of the territory had become appreciated by the British government - that it is British policy to incorporate it into the British Empire. It constitutes the first act projected by British authority participating in its exploration, looking to its settlement or development. It clearly indicates British animus to acquire British foothold on the North Pacific. That a circumnavigator so distinguished should have visited these coasts, perpetuating the evidences of that visit and his examinations, by the names he conferred upon these headlands of the coast observed by him, render this voyage one of the most important in the prehistoric annals of the region. Captain Cook saw no portion of the western coat of America in these latitudes, which had not previously been seen by Perez, Bodega or Heceta. In high northern latitudes he availed himself of the reports of previous Russian voyages; yet his examinations are so minute and reliable, correcting so many previous errors, that, as a contribution to the world's knowledge, the value of his labor is incalculable.

     His claim as mere discoverer may be challenged, or even denied. Yet to him must be awarded the honor of first making known, rendering appreciable to the world and reducing to actual shape, the crude, imperfect and erroneous data attempted to be laid down on previous charts. He determined the distance between important points on the Asiatic and North American coasts, and approximately ascertained the extent of the two continents. He forever dissipated the theory of an alleged northwestern water passage. Voyages thereafter to the coast were to be in the pursuit of commerce, the wealth of which had been demonstrated by the Cook expedition. Spanish, Russian and other navigators had contributed tot he world knowledge of lands and seas. The western coast of North America had found its place upon the map. Its coast line had been traced, and some of its harbors, bays and islands been superficially examined. At most, these lands and seas had been only visited. North of California, no attempt at occupancy or settlement had been made except the Russian establishment in 1763 on the Island of Kodiak, near the entrance of Cook's Bay.



CHAPTER VII

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