This page part of the Walla Walla County AHGP Site
Copyright 2001, 2002
Janine M. Bork

WHITMAN'S LIFE AND DEATH.
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Historical Data Concerning the
Hero's Adventures.
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WHAT HE ACCOMPLISHED.
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Detail of How Whitman, Spaulding
and Gray Reached the
Great Northwest.
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     In view of this general awakening to the worth of Whitman, and the recognition by the best historians of the nation's debt to him, it seems worth the while to tell once more the story of his life and death. It is familiar to many, but it ought to be a household story. It rests now on a sure basis of historic fact, attested by writers like John Fiske, McMasters and Welch. In the days to come the boys and girls of the United States will honor the name of Whitman and first hear of Walla Walla in connection with his story. It has been given thus:
 

     In the early part of this century a trapper of the American Fur Company who made his way from the Rocky mountains into the Northwest, spent the night with a tribe of Nez Perces Indians. When bedtime came the Indians saw him take out of the inner pocket of his hunting jacket a little book and slowly turn over its leaves as his eyes traversed its pages. They had never seen a book before. Then they watched him as he closed his eyes, and they saw his lips moe, it seemed to them as though in some strange incantation. They had never known what prayer was. They asked him what was the meaning of those things which he did, and he told them that the little book which he held in his hands was the white man's book which showed the way to the better land; that in the East, whence he had come, there was knowledge of the white man's God, to whom he had been praying. The news spread fast from campfire to campfire. It was discussed by the whole tribe. The Indians resolved at last to send an embassy of their most honored chieftains east across the mountains to bring back knowledge of that white man's book of heaven. In 1832 four Indian chieftains entered St. Louis. They were embassadors of their tribe. They made their way to General Clark, the United States army officer in command of the post, but he did not give them what they had come for. He loaded them with presents; he showed them places of entertainment, and the public buildings; but the purpose of their journey was not answered. The two old chiefs died in St. Louis and were buried. The two young men at last decided to return, but before they left one of them made a farewell address to General Clark's office, which expressed the sorrow of a breaking heart. His words were these:
 

     "I came to you from the trail of many moons from the setting sun; you were the friends of my fathers, who have all gone the long way. I came with one eye partly open for more light to my people, who sit in darkness. I will go back with both eyes closed. How can I go back blind to my blind people? I made my way to you with strong arms, through many enemies and strange lands, that I might carry back much to them. I go back with both arms broken and empty. The two fathers who came with us, the braves of many winters and wars, we leave asleep by your great water and wigwams. They were tired in many moons, and their moccasins wore out. My people sent me to get the whit man's book of heaven, but I have not found it. I am going back the long sad trail to my people of the dark land. You make my feet heavy with the burdens of gifts, and my moccasins will grow old in carrying them, but the book is not among them. When I tell my poor blind people, after one more snow, in the big council that I did not bring the book, no word will be spoken by our old men or our young braves. One by one they will rise up and go out in silence. My people will die in darkness, and they will go on the long path to the other hunting grounds. No white man will go with them, and no white man's book will make the way plain. I have spoken."
 

     There was a young clerk in General Clark's office who heard that farewell speech. He wrote it down in a letter which he sent to his family living in Pittsburg, Pennsylvania. The letter was published, and the news spread far and wide that the Indians of Oregon territory were asking for the Gospel. The word came at last to the ears and to the heart of a young doctor living in western New York state. When Marcus Whitman heard this cry ofneed he heard it as the voice of God and said, "Here am I, send me."
 

     Starting in 1835, with Rev. Samuel Parker, under a commission from the American Board, he reached the head waters of the Missouri, but realizing the magnitude of the task before him, turned back to the East for recruits. In the summer of 1836 a little party of five missionaries, Dr. Whitman and his wife, Henry H. Spaulding and his wife, and William H. Gray, made their way across the continent to Oregon territory.
 

     Is there a more romantic incident in our nation's history than that which occurred on the Fourth of July of that same year, 1836? Month after month the little band ofmissionaries had made their toilsome way steadily westward. At last they have reached the summit of the Rocky mountains, and see for the first time the western divide. As they gaze upon the strange, wild land, to which God is calling them, they take out of their battered, canvas-covered wagon a United States flag and unfurl it to the western breeze. They open their Bible and kneel around it in the grass, and then with prayer and praise, with our country's flag floating over them, and on that, our nation's birthday, they take possession of the whole Pacific coast in the name of God and of the United States. It is said that carved in the rock of that same South Pass there may be seen today the name of Fremont known as "the Pathfind of the Rockies," and under it the date, 1843. But seven years before General Fremont, with his escort of United States troops, ever saw that pass, five Christian missionaries, two of them Christian women, had gone through to take possession of the land for God and for our country.
 

     The little party plunged down the western slope, through the defiles and fastnesses of the mountains along a narrow horse trail which lay winding through the wilderness. And Dr. Whitman persisted in dragging with him their canvas-covered wagon. The Hudson Bay Company traders tried to stop him. They knew that if American wagons succeeded in passing the Rocky mountains the land would be lost to Great Britain. Up to this time they had succeeded in stopping every wagon. But Whitman was not to be deceived. Despite their urgen protestations, and the advice even of his companions, he persisted in taking the wagon. It broke down, but he reduced it to a two-wheeled cart, and dragged it on. It was impossible to haul it by horse along the narrow trail, but fastening a rope to the pole, he dragged it on by hand. Mrs. Whitman, in her diary, tells how seven times in one morning and the wagon went rolling down the sides of the canyon into the stream below, yet still the doctor persevered - filled with madness, as his friends thought, but an inspired madness, as the sequel proved. Passing over the plains of Utah and Southern Idaho, through Eastern Oregon, they came over the Blue mountains into the Columbia river valley, and there, at Waiilatpu, four miles west of the present city of Walla Walla, Whitman estabished their home among the Cayuse Indians, while Spaulding and his wife proceeded up the Snake river to Lapwai among the Nez Perces Indians. An American traveler visited the Mission three years after Marcus Whitman had settled there. He found that in that time Dr. Whitman had with his own hands, erected three buildings besides the school house, was then engaged in cosntructing a grist mill, had himself fenced in 260 acres of the surrounding prairie land never tilled before, had plowed, harrowed and seeded it with the first crops which were ever raised by an American west of the Rocky mountains, had learned the Indian language, and had assisted his wife to teach the Indian boys and girls who came thronging into the little school house, while he acted as physician and surgeon for the region 150 miles about. Can that school house, that grist mill, that medical missionary ever be forgotten? That Christian home was the first known to the history of the Pacific coast.
 

     In those early days Oregon territory was an unknown land. American statesmen regarded it as a wilderness of sage brush and sand, worthless for purposes of civilization. Daniel Webster, in the senate in 1825, had said that he would never vote an appropriation of a single cent to bring the Pacific coast one inch nearer Boston than it then was. McDuffie had sneered at the land as not worht one single pinch of snuff, and Benton, in the United States senate, had said that God had set the Stony mountains to be the natural western boundary of the United States, and he hoped to God that they would always remain so. We got our information in those days from the British Hudson Bay Fur Company. For many years its trappers and traders had been deriving a revenue of hundreds of thousands of pounds in trade with the Indians for furs and skins. Through the London Examiner, by way of England, they announced to our government that the land would never be of value to the United States. The Northwest boundary line had never been determined, and the land was held under a provision for joint occupancy until the line should be drawn. The missionary, Marcus Whitman, discovered the true facts in the case. He learned the amazing value of that Northwest land to the United States; of those great prairies whose fertility challenges today the admiration of the world; of those forests, which in the state of Washington alone will furnish lumber to the United States, without cutting a stick elsewhere, for over a hundred years to come; of those inexhaustible deposits of coal and iron, of gold and silver, which make the northwest a treasure house of the nation; of those great rivers and harbors, of which Puget Sound alone will accommodate all the commerce and navies of the world. He saw the importance of this land, and its value to the nation of his birth. He resolved, God helping him, that he would prevent the blunder of giving over Oregon to Great Britain.
 

     In the fall of 1842 he was called to attend a patient at the Hudson Bay Company post at Fort Walla Walla, twenty-five miles away. After attending to his patient he sat down to dinner with the traders, and while they were at the dinner table a guide came rushing in, bringing the exciting news that a party of British settlers had made their way around by the north from the Columbia river, entering Oregon to seize it for Great Britain. A young Englishman who was at the table leaped to his feet in triumph and proposed the toast: "Here's to Oregon; she is ours now. The United States may whistle for her." Dr. Whitman sat silent. He knew what the words meant - the loss of Oregon and the whole Pacific coast to the United States, the destruction of the mission, and the degradation of the Indians as well, for it had ever been the policy of the Hudson Bay Company to keep the Indians as savages that trade might not be spoiled. As quick as he could he rose from the table, and calling for his horse, rode post haste back to the mission at Waiilatpu. As he drew rein before the mission gateway he called to the missionary who was standing in the doorway: "Spaulding, I must go to Washington this winter." The words sounded like those of a madman. The mission party was quickly summoned, and Whitman laid before them his news and his intention. He told how in Washington our statesmen were ignorant of the value of the Northwest, and were about to cede it to Great Britain, for the Ashburton treaty which was then under negotiation was supposed to have for its object the determination of the Northwest boundary line. He told them of the British colony which had invaded the land, and announced his purpose of starting at once for Washington to lay the facts before the American government and save Oregon to the United States. His friends expostulated with him; it was mixing up religion and politics, they said; the American board had not sent him out to take part in any such wild goose chase as that, and his wife besought him with tears in her eyes not to go, for it was considered almost certain death to try to cross the Rocky mountains in the wintertime. But to all their remonstrances whitman had but a single reply. "Gentlemen," he said, "though I am a missionary, I am not expatriated; to Washington I will go." And the next morning, within twenty-four hours of the time when he first heard of the British invasion, he was in his saddle starting for Washington. As he disappeared in the mountains, his wife was left, not knowing whether she would ever see him again. Six years before she had left her father's house in New York state, a home of wealth and culture and refinement, and had been living in the wilderness for the sake of Christ. The first letters which she had received from home took two years and six months to reach her. They had gone across the Atlantic to England, had there been shipped on a sailing vessel around Cape Horn to the Sandwich Islands, had there been put on a little schooner which made one trip a year to the mouth of the Columbia river, and then found their precarious way by the hand of some stray trapper up the river to the mission station. She never saw her home again.
 

     But Whitman is riding eastward.
 

     He took with him a young white man, Lovejoy, and an Indian, who professed to act as guide, though it proved that he did not know the way. They made the first 330 miles in ten days, and came to Fort Hall, in what is now southern Idaho, commanded by an Englishman, Captain Grant. He stopped them. There was to him something suspicious in the sight of two young Americans starting to ride east when the snows were already white on the mountain tops, and he told them they could go no farther. "Why not?" asked Whitman. "The Indians are on the warpath along the trail in the mountains," was the reply, "and it is certain death to go farther." There was at that time but one trail across the northern part of the continent, and Whitman had expected to take that trail. "You must stay here," said Captain grant, "or turn back." "No," said Whitman; "if we can't take the regular trail we will turn to the south and take the Sante Fe trail." It was a thousand miles out of their way over an unbroken wilderness, over mountains which white men had never seen, over rivers which white men had never crossed. But turn to the south they did, and plowed their way through the deepening winter snows, to save Oregon territory to the United States.
 

     Can you not see the indomitable Whitman as he battles his way through the snow, his great head set firm upon his broad and massive shoulders, his resolute frame nerved to a purpose which was certainly inspired of God? Once on that journey Whitman lost heart. The snows had gathered around them, and what few landmarks there were were lost to sight. They were in a canyon, and they knew not whether to turn to the right hand or to the left. The doctor said at last: "Hope is gone; we might as well give up." He dismounted and knelt down to pray. After a minute or two of silence the Indian exclaimed: "Look at the old pack mule. See how it is turning its head and twitching its ear as though it wanted to go in this direction." "Well," said Whitman, "we may as well go in that direction as any other."
 

     They followed the old pack mule and it led the little party, under the providence of God, back to where their morning camp-fire was still burning, and where they found the landmarks they had lost sight of. They came, so Lovejoy tells us in a latter which is still preserved - they came one day to a river 600 feet wide, frozen, one-third of the way over on either side, and with a great rushing torrent down the middle. The horses balked and refused to enter. Whitman leaped  from his saddle, cut a pole eight or ten feet long in the bushes, and then mounting, had his companions lead him to the edge and push him off into the icy current. Horse and rider sank with a splash, then rising to the surface, struck out for the opposite shore, the current bearing them diagonally downstream. The other animals followed on behind. When Whitman reached the other shore he took the pole which he carried on his shoulders, broke the loose ice on the edge and clambered out on the thick ice, hauling his horse up after him. Then mounting into his saddle, he rode on into the forest, and as he rode the water on his clothes turned to ice, and he rode like a knight of old, clad in shining coat of mail.
 

     Their provisions gave out. They were obliged to live on dog meat and mule meat, and at last even on the bark of cottonwood trees, but nothing daunted them.
 

     On the 3d of January, 1843, they reached Bent's Fort, on the Arkansas river, Whitman's face, hands and feet frozen, but with a clear trail ahead of them towards Washington. The Indian and Lovejoy were too exhausted to go further. Whitman did not stop a single day; but calling for a fresh horse, rode easterward, knowing the fate of an empire was hanging at his saddlebow.
 

     And now as he rode he began to meet American settlers, who were then pouring into the Mississippi valley. He told them of the fertility of Oregon, of its amazing natural resources, and promised to lead back a wagon train of settlers that coming summer.
 

     Lovejoy stayed behind and scattered handbills, some of which are known to have reached even down into Texas, preparing for the emigration. but Whitman was riding steadily eastward on his nobler mission. It was on the 3d of March, 1843, when Whitman reached Washington, five months to the day from the time when he had left Waiilatpu. The journey now is one of five days in a palace car. It took Whitman five months to ride that four thousand miles, three thousand of it on horseback. And when he reached Washington and made his way to Daniel Webster, then secretary of state, he found that Webster was engaged in a project to trade Oregon territory to Great Britain for a cod fishery and would not listen to his story. Baffled, yet not disheartened, he went to see President Tyler. Tyler was more impressed.
 

     "The man is a missionary," he said. "His face and hands show what he has been through. But," said he, "Dr. Whitman, your story is all right, but after all Oregon cannot be saved to the United States, because it cannot be settled from the East. You cannot take wagons over the Rocky mountains."
 

     "Can't take wagons over the Rocky mountains?" said Whitman. "Why, Mr. President, seven years ago I took the first wagon that ever crossed the Rocky mountains. It is out at Waiilatpu now."
 

     "Well," said President Tyler, "if you can show the accessibility of Oregon, and that the mountains can be crossed by wagons, I will see that the land isn't given to Great Britain.."
 

     It was what Whitman had come for. Turning westward,with but a week's delay, he led back that summer the first wagon train which ever crossed the American continent - 200 wagons, 1000 loyal American settlers, nearly 3000 horses and oxen - led them over the great plains, through the defiles of the mountains, past the posts of the protesting Hudson Bay Company, out into the Walla Walla valley, and the first news which the party at the mission had of his safety or of his success was on that morning in September, 1843, when, looking up, they saw the long line of white-topped wagons come winding down the sides of the Blue mountains, and presently heard the clatter of Whitman's horse's hoofs as he drew rein at his own door.
 

     Such was the way in which Marcus Whitman saved Oregon territory to the United States. For that wagon train blazed a trail across the continent so clear and broad that from that day on American settlers poured westward in an unending stream. And when at last, by treaty with Great Britain, July 17, 1846, the Northwest boundary line was settled, the influence of Whitman's work had been felt, the value of region was recognized, and our American statesmen claimed it for their own. The line was drawn where it now stands at the 49th parallel and thus the land was saved to the Union, from which three states, Oregon, Washington and Idaho, have since been formed. Into that territory you might put all of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, West Virginia, and have enough left to make three Connecticuts - saved to the United States because Marcus Whitman was prophet enough to foresee the value of this country, and was hero enough to risk his life to save it.  Then he settled down as though he had done nothing great to take up again his work as teacher and physician.
 

     But the signing of that treaty with Great Britain virtually meant the signing of Dr. Whitman's death warrant. The British Fur Company would never allow itself to be robbed by any one living man of such a prize as Oregon, and from the day when the news of the treaty reached the Northwest, the traders of the fur company began to stir up the Indians against the Whitman mission. Hitherto they had considered the Whitmans as their friends - as angels sent to them from heaven. They had called the doctor "the good doctor," and had gone to him in every time of trouble. But now suspicions were planted in their minds. It was whispered to them that Dr. Whitman had a secret motive for his work; that he was trying to rob them of their lands and of their horses. In the fall of 1847 measles broke out, and Whitman treated his white patients and Indian patients alike, but strange as it may seem, his white patients recovered, while his Indian patients died. They took the same medicines, but the Indians taking his medicines would steep themselves in a sweat-box, a low lodge or hut of branches constructed by the edge of the river, in which they had placed hot stones and poured water on them to make steam baths. Reekin with sweat, they rushed out and jumped into the ice-cold stream. They died by hundreds. But they were told, "Whitman has poisoned you," and they knew no better than to believe it. On the 29th of November, 1847, the plot reached its head and broke. On the afternoon of that day Dr. Whitman was indoors giving medicine to a sick Indian. An Indian stole through the door in moccassined feet, bearing in his hand under his blanket a hatchet. quickly raising his arm he struck the good doctor one blow on the back of the head, then again. He fell to the ground with a groan and his blood gushed out upon the bare board floor. Then the war whoop rung out, and guns were fired. Mrs. Whitman fell, pierced through the breast by a rifle bullet. She and the doctor were killed, besides twelve others of the missionary party. The rest were carried away into a captivity which was worse than death. The Indians in their savage lust for destruction, burned the buildings to the ground, and hacked to pieces the very orchard which Whitman had planted, leaving not a vestige of civilization to mark the spot where Whitman had lived and died.

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