About one-sixth
of the following account was published in the History of Union County in
1861. However, since it is one of the few rather detailed stories of the
trip across the plains that has been prepared by members of the family
who had first-hand information, we think it should be preserved for future
generations by printing in the annual of the Union County Historical Society.
– Bernal D. Hug, President, Union County Historical Society.
By James Woodell
Summerville, Oregon
April, 1930
On
April 10, 1830, just 100 years ago, the first covered wagon left St. Louis
for the west over the Oregon Trail route. On December 29 of that year,
just 100 years ago next December, Ezra Meeker, the pioneer who devoted
his later life to marking the Old Oregon Trail, was born. By act of Congress
and proclamation of President Hoover, the period from April 10, 1930 to
December 29, 1930 has been set aside as “The Covered Wagon Centennial”,
in honor of the dauntless men and women who laid the foundation for the
great development of this western country.
Howard
R. Diggs of New York, president of the Old Oregon Trail Association says,
after a trip across this famous old trail, that in the passing of Ezra
Meeker, the work he started is bequeathed to the descendants of the pioneers
– that work of gathering the stories of this march across the continent.
He says that along the trail historical societies are being formed, famous
stopping places are being bought up and dedicated as historical shrines.
Union
County is not behind in this movement. Gangloff Park, with its monument
is dedicated to the pioneers and agroup of interested people met in July
at the home of ex governor and Mrs. Walter M. Pierce and started the organization
of an historical society which they hope to perfect next month.
The
Woodell family is one of the pioneer families of this valley, so, it is
fitting at this reunion, we honor the memory of those who crossed the plains,
especially the two who are with us today, (Uncle Jim Woodell and Mrs. Mary
Oliver). So this story is dedicated to them.
The
spring of 1862 saw such times as will never be forgotten in American history.
Abraham Lincoln had just taken office as President of the United States.
The question, “Would the South cecede?” vied with talk of the great migration
to the west, in every Iowa town. Excitement stirred in the farming country,
three quarters of a mile from Bladensburg in Wapelo County, Iowa, when
it became known that James Woodell and all of his family were going west.
Busy times followed. Covered wagons must be gotten ready, out-fitted for
the long, six months drive. Clothes, not store clothes, but homemade jeans
and linsey spun and woven from flax in the home. The mother had been dead
for a number of years and all this work of spinning, weaving and making
clothes was done by the two married daughters, Mary Margaret and Eliza.
As the time drew near to start Margaret and her husband, William German,
decided they would not go, but would live on the old home place.
On
April 9, 1862, the start was made. This was the day before Fort Sumpter
had been fired on, but Iowa was a long ways from Washington then, and our
travellers did not know until they reached Council Bluffs, many miles on
their way.
Can
you see them in your mind? The light spring wagon took the lead, double-decked
it was, with the lower part filed with provisions; barrels of flour and
sugar, sides and sides of bacon, grain and corn for seed, a few cherished
flower seeds. The upper deck was crowded to the bursting point with bedding
and other equipment – large curving bows covered with gleaming white canvas,
pulled by a gray and a bay mare, stepping so lively, and on the seat were
two young men, the moving spirits of this great adventure. Bill was just
past 21 and Joe, 19. Their guns were by their sides for they were to be
the hunters of the party and many a deer, bear, antelope and buffalo, to
say nothing of birds they brought into camp on that long trail.
Just
behind them the stolid ox-team stood ready to move. Six big yoke of oxen
in the wheel and in the lead, four milch cows. Father Woodell stood beside
the wheel oxen, his long whip in his hand and at the head stood his son-in-law,
John Wallsinger. Each found, by necessity, his work outlined for him. A
tall, slim young man with a keen sense of direction, a tireless walker,
he soon became the scout of the party, walking long miles ahead of the
slow moving oxen, scouting out camping places, for a creek must be found
for the night camp, the noon one was so often a dry camp. This latter wagon,
like the other, was filled to the brim, but on the upper deck, one bed
was left unrolled and the tent was always put in the easiest place to get
at for there were children in this wagon.
Eliza
Woodell Wallsinger sat on the high seat with her three-weeks old baby Sallie
and four-year old Maggie in a bright pink calico sunbonnet bobbing around
on the seat beside her. The little Woodell brothers, Julius, or Doon as
he was called, nine, and James, Jr., 13, hanging to the back of the wagon
ready to climb aboard when the slow moving oxen got in motion.
Neighbors
and friends were standing around; good-byes and good wishes were being
said. Mrs. Thompson, the nearest neighbor, gathered little Jimmy into her
arms, tears running down her cheeks, “Jimmy, I just can’t see you go away
out west – you have seemed just like my own little boy since your ma died.”
Just
a little of the glamour of going out west faded as a lump came in Jimmy’s
throat and the tears came to his eyes as he said good-by to Lew, the young
Thompson lad who had been his best friends, then crawled up in the back
of the wagon. They were off!
The
first few stops were a picnic. Liza and Margaret baked loaves and loaves
of bread, dozens and dozens of cookies and made jars of jam. But when these
were gone, just think of night after night when the long march was done,
no place to buy even a loaf of bread, this frail little woman cooked great
pots of beans, coffee, dried fruit and baked loaves and loaves of salt
rising bread whenever a day’s stop was made. There was her husband, her
father, four big husky boys, with a growing boys’ appetite, whetted by
out-of-doors living. There were big washings and the care of her little
tots. Do you see how she ever made it?
At
Council Bluffs, six or seven other wagons joined the Woodell wagons. One
night just as camp was made, a terrible commotion broke loose under the
big Woodell wagon. Little Doon was bawling at the top of his voice and
howling for “Papa.” No one ever knew what did happen but father came running
and pulled Jimmy out by the heels and paddled him good for picking on his
little brother. Jimmy felt that he was in the right for pasting him in
the nose, so he gathered up his coat and hit the back trail for Iowa. He’d
just go back and live with the Thompsons. He did not hear when his father
called, so gathering up a large sagebrush switch, father took the back
track too. It was a merry chase while it lasted, but in the end, Jimmy
decided that he would go on to Oregon.
As
they neared Devil’s Gap on the Sweetwater in western Nebraska, they met
up with a number of other wagons headed west. As camp was being made, swarms
and swarms of mosquitoes arrived too, settling down in the weary travellers.
They were not the little annoying Iowa kind, but those big blood-thirsty
western kind. The stock just went wild and the men had to drive them a
mile or two to higher ground. Liza was trying to get supper and was carrying
the tiny baby in her arms. “Maggie, you come here and keep the skeeters
off of little sister.” But Maggie had found that if she got a big sagebrush
and went switching it around her little legs around and around in the smoke
of the camp fire, the skeeters would not bother her, so she did not hear.
But
thoughtful little Jimmy did. He went to the wagon, got a sheet from the
bed and spread it on the ground. Then he said, “Give me the baby, sis.”
He took her in his arms and rolled over and over till they were completely
hid from the skeeters. When the men came back, the supper was ready, but
Jimmy and the baby were sound asleep.
Among
the new folks who joined the train at this place (Devil’s Gap), was the
Hasty family. They had a little blind boy named Ephraim, a year younger
than Jimmy. The way had been so long for this little lad who could not
see to walk, but had to sit all day long in the wagon. A boy of his own
age was a God-send to him and they became fast friends. For miles and miles,
sometimes ahead and sometimes behind in the dust, Jimmy led little blind
Eph Hasty by the hand, and if anyone shot a new kind of animal or bird,
Jimmy must take him to see it. Slowly his sensitive fingers would move
over the animal’s body – and he had seen it.
In
Eastern Utah, they were getting into hostile Indian country. Now new wagons
were joining them every day. When they stopped at a small creek, the women
washed and baked and the men organized a real train and elected a captain.
Among the new people was one little girl, who from then on was the pest
of the camp. Her mother never kept her at home, while the other children
were kept rather close to their own wagons.
Liza
had her big batch of salt-rising bread all made and set in pans to raise,
around on the ground in her tent, while she washed and kept the fire up
to heat the dutch oven. When she came in from hanging her clothes on the
bushes, this naughty little girl had been in her tent and stepped a bare,
dusty foot into every one of the loaves of bread which were ready to bake.
Tired and worn as she was, it just seemed more than she could stand.
In
all, there were 30 or 35 wagons gathered together and a Mr. Manville was
chosen as captain as he had traveled this same trail twice before and he
was a very able man. They were never sorry of their choice and from then
on his word was law. He said the Indians seldom attacked the larger tarins,
it was the smaller ones, but of course the larger trains moved more slowly.
At
Green River, in Wyoming, came the most thrilling episode of the whole journey.
It was now July, and Green River was at its highest. A crude ferry crossed
the raging stream, which ran like a mill race. Only one wagon or yoke of
oxen could be taken at a time, so from daylight until dusk, wagon after
wagon was taken across. When the Woodell wagon was about halfway across,
little Maggie, sitting on the bed with her two small uncles, got scared
at the water all around them. “Jimmy, how are we going to get out?” she
cried. “Oh, we aren’t going to, we are going to stay right here,” he said,
and to this day, that wagon, entirely surrounded by water, is the most
vivid picture of her memory.
By
nine, all the wagons were safely across, and by ten the camp was still.
At midnight a messenger came in haste, waking Captain Manville, and wanting
him to move camp at once as their company of nine wagons, camped on Clearwater
ten miles away, had been attacked by the Indians – one man had been killed
and all of their stock had been driven off. All was excitement. Captain
Manville called all his men together saying he knew the Indians and that
it was the stock they wanted and not scalps. They would not be attacked
again, but the train would move at daybreak. No one slept the rest of that
night, and in the gray dawn they got under way – scouts in front and an
armed guard behind.
About
2:00 in the afternoon, they came to the camp on the Clearwater. The people
had seen nothing more of the Indians, but they still knew they were not
far away. The horses, which knew and inhaled the Indian smell, were nervous
and afraid, even the stolid oxen were little better. After holding a brief
service, the man who had been killed was buried and a wagon bow put over
the grave to mark the place. They then prepared for the night. The wagons
were drawn up in the usual circle, the stock penned inside and three tiers
of armed guards around the outside of them. This was another night when
no one slept. Toward morning, the Indians fired from the bluffs some distance
away, hoping to stampede the stock. They were afraid to attack so large
a train. They were answered by shots from all the guards and they did not
fire again.
When
moving time came, what extra stock the train had was gathered up, two wagons
outfitted, all food and necessary clothes and bedding of the stranded people
loaded in, the women and children found places to ride in other wagons
of the train, and the weary march began again. As no more Indians were
seen, gradually the tension loosened.
One
hot afternoon, thunder clouds hung low in the west, toward evening, heavy
thunder and lightning came, crash after crash. Captain Manville called
a halt, but the storm was too swift for them. Before the oxen could be
unyoked, it struck, and oh, what a hail storm. Hail stones as big as hen
eggs, great jagged pieces of ice that cut the horses. They snorted and
broke loose from the wagons. Oxen bellowed and dragging their yokes, went
dashing away across the rolling plains. Liza, with the help of Jimmy, was
trying to pitch the tent, when the wind caught it and tore it out of their
hands. Grabbing the baby and little Maggie, one in each arm, she threw
a quilt over them and dived under the wagon. All the next day was spent
in gathering up the stock and mending the equipment.
It
was August now. One monotonous day followed another – dust and heat, sage-brush
and sand across Nevada and Idaho. Travelling in the dust behind the wagons,
Jimmy said to little Eph, “How I hate the sage brush, all you can see,
all you can smell, all you can taste, is sage brush. Wish I was back home.”
Next
day when they were ready to go, Jimmy did not come for him, and the next
morning, little Eph came feeling his way along the Woodell wagons. “Mrs.
Wallsinger, where is Jimmy?” he asked. “Jimmy is lying on the bed, he’s
sick,” she said. Jimmy heard Eph ask about him, but he was too sick to
care. Lonely little Eph felt his way back to his father’s wagon, reporting
that Jimmy was sick. All day Jimmy tossed on the bed in the wagon and at
night when the tent was up, Liza put cold cloths on his head before she
started supper. The children were cross; things were out of tune; Jimmy
was sick. As they neared Fort Hall, father Woodell told Captain Manville
they would have to stop as the boy was a pretty sick lad. He was afraid
he was not going to pull through. Then came Mrs. McCormick from the wagon
just behind the Hasty’s saying she would like to take Jimmy in their wagon
as she had had some experience in nursing and maybe she could pull him
through.
Next
day they came to Fort Hall, and Captain Manville announced they would stay
there till they saw how it went with Jim Woodell’s boy. Some of the train
were impatient; they were headed for the Willamette Valley, summer was
passing; but Captain Manville would not move on that day. Said Mrs. McCormick,
“Mr. Woodell, don’t undress tonight, I might need you. I think the crisis
will come before morning.” Near dawn she called as little Jimmy was so
white and still, but the fever was gone and he had ceased muttering of
home and Lew. He knew his father’s face and smiled a wan little smile,
as he bent over him.
Next
day, Mrs. McCormick, thinking he could be moved, the train got under way
again. In a few days, Jimy was able to take blind little Eph by the hand
and fare forth ahead of the train. “You was awfully sick, wasn’t you, Jimmy?”
“Uh-huh.” “Wish I could see you with my eyes.” “Wish you could.”
And
so across Idaho and into the Baker Valley – Oregon at last. Two weeks they
stopped and looked the country over, but no one wanted to stay. It was
now late in September when they came out on the hill where Ladd Canyon
opens out into the valley of the Grande Ronde. How good the waving bunch
grass looked after miles and miles of sage. Father Woodell said, “Here
I think I’ll want to stay.” So a council was held on the brow of the hill.
The two big boys, Bill and Joe, were determined to go on with the train,
most of them were going to the Willamette Valley or to Walla Walla. Liza
wanted to go on to the Willamette for there were settlers and she wanted
to see cultivated fields and fruit trees again. But John, her husband,
agreed with his father-in-law that winter was coming on and they had better
stop here. Not coming to any decision, they pushed on, passing a few log
cabins where LaGrande is now, and camped on the river where the Preobstal
bridge is now.
Next
morning they came to a decision. They would stop for the winter and if
they didn’t like it, would move on in the spring. But they had reached
their destination. No one ever said: “Move on.”
How
different were the looks of the party camped on the banks of the Grande
Ronde, from the party which six months before had left Bladensburg. The
wagons were dust-stained and old. The once gleaming white canvas covers
were tattered and torn. Maggie’s little pink calico sunbonnet, a dingy
rag, flapped from one of the wagon bows. But the little three-week old
baby whom all the Bladensburg folks said Liza would never reach her destination
with – that little baby was so fat and brown, you could almost take her
for an Indian papoose. Just remember, four milch cows were in the lead
of that second wagon.
Sixty-eight
years have passed and a third James Woodell now lives on that farm in the
shadow of Mt. Emily. Their children are married and gone, but grandchildren
fill the old home with happy voices now. We count six generations from
Grandfather Woodell down to little Danny Oliver, our Aunt Margaret’s great
grandson – she’s the little Maggie of the pink sunbonnet. And what of little
Jimmy who trudged barefooted in the dust of the covered wagons? A frail
old man with a long white beard, did you say? Why no. He’s hale and hearty,
straight as an Indian chief, the head of the Woodell clan!
More
Pictures Of Our Pioneers
It
was the 12th day of September, 1862, when we left the Woodell-Wallsinger
family camped on the bank of the Grande Ronde, all the other wagons going
on to the Willamette Valley or to Walla Walla. The young men, Bill and
Joe, you will remember, wanted to push on to the Willamette, but it was
decided to stay in the Grande Ronde until spring, then, if not satisfied,
to move on. Joe had made friends in the train who were headed for Walla
Walla, and when this decision was made, he decided to go with them. It
was two years before he returned.
The
few log cabins nestled against the hillside in old LaGrande, then called
“Browntown”, with the Nesleys, Charles Goodnough and John Caviness, who
had claims staked all along the river, were all the settlers in that part
of the valley. There were a few people wintered up along Catherine Creek
and a few settlers at Forest Cove on the other side of the valley.
As
soon as the oxen had rested for a day or two, Bill took three yoke of the
best oxen and the big wagon and went to The Dalles for the winter’s supply
of food. On his way down, he traveled with several wagons headed for the
Willamette valley, but the trip back, he made alone. As soon as he had
started, father Woodell started on foot along the foot-hill country to
spy out a location for the winter. A little after noon he came upon the
camp of a man named Reaves, under some large pine trees near what is called
the Wade spring, and which is now the water supply for the N.K. West ranch.
In
talking to Mr. Reaves, he told him he was so pleased by the lay of the
land a few miles back, if he could have only found a spring. Mr. Reaves
said he could show him a dandy spring and they started back. On the place
now owned by William Bull, long known as the Conrad place, the spring was
found and father Woodell said, “This just suits me. That’s good land running
to the south and east.” “I’ve found the place,” he reported that evening
on his return to camp.
Next
morning commenced the moving. They just had the small two-horse wagons
to move with, and several trips were made before they could get all their
belongings down to a camp under the big pines, near the Reaves camp, where
the logs were to be gotten out for the new home. The first log cabin stood
about halfway between the spring and where Mr. Bull’s house now stands.
When father Woodell took out his claim, he said, “I’ll have the house face
south and the road go between those two pans of rock.” Later the land and
road were surveyed and the road still goes between these points of rocks.
In
about ten days, Bill returned from The Dalles and found te camp a busy
place. Father Woodell and Jimmy had mowed with a scythe, the tall ripe
grass growing in the swale, south of where the house was to be, making
a big stack for winter’s feed for the stock. Then they began cutting the
logs for the house. It was October now and the chill of the nights told
that winter was soon to come.
Mr.
Reaves had told them of a road to Walla Walla, turning north about where
the town of Meacham is now. As soon as Bill got back from The Dalles with
the flour, he took the three rested yoke of oxen and went to Walla Walla,
bringing back a load of potatoes, about seven bushels of wheat and four
ears of corn. In the meantime, the cabin walls were going up.
Liza
was anxious to see how the new house was progressing and suggested they
move camp to that end of the operations. This plan did not meet with the
approval of anyone but Jimmy, who was always left at camp to help her.
She told him he was to stay at camp and mind the children while she went
up to say just where the new camp would be. But while watching a big log
being put in place, a rope broke letting one end down, nearly catching
her underneath it. She decide right then and there, much to the relief
of the men folks, that she would stay right where she was until that house
was finished.
But
Jimmy did get his chance to help. Mr. Raves had loaned them a frow and
John had cut a big fir tree down from which he made the shakes to cover
the roof. They were three feet long and four to six inches wide. When they
were ready to put on, John said Jimmy might go along and pass up the shakes
for him to nail on. One thing young Bill had brought from The Dalles were
the nails with which to put on the roof.
At
last it was done, and happy as kings, they moved in. It would not be much
of a house to us today – just one large log room, the cracks chinked with
mud. At the east end was a big stone fire place, a crude door to the west,
just one small window in the south wall, covered with muslin. Two long
boards from the upper deck of the wagon bed served for a table and rude
benches at each side, several home-made stools in front of the fireplace,
a few boards laid on pegs driven in the wall, made the cupboard for the
dishes. Their beds were crude bunks nailed to the sides of the cabin wall,
filled with hay on which were laid the feather beds and blankets. When
the mud chalking fell out, the snow drifted in. There was no floor, just
the hard trampled dirt and a bunch of pine boughs tied together made a
broom. But it was a house, a home after all those weary, weary months of
travel; making a hasty camp at night, breaking camp early in the morning,
going a few miles and camping again.
And
as the days passed, thoughts of moving on in the spring, grew dim. So dim
in fact, that Bill made a second trip to Walla Walla late in the fall,
this time with a pack horse. He went across an Indian trail just north
of their camp, where a number of years later the Thomas and Ruckle Roads
were built. He went for the iron parts of a breaking plow for they had
decided they were going to stay and put in a crop in the spring.
James
Pyle, for whom Pyle’s Canyon was later named, drove in a band of cattle
from the Willamette Valley late in the fall, and the Woodells agreed to
look after them through the winter. Among the bunch were three fresh cows,
so they had milk that first winter. Their own cows which they had driven
across the plains were now dry.
Winter
came early that year, and the first big stack of hay, which they had worked
so hard to put up, was burned when a fire which had been set to burn the
tall grass from around the cabin, got away from their control. Until after
the first snow fell, they worked putting up more hay. The snow fell deep
along the west side, but across the valley on the east side, it was much
lighter. So when the hay was gone, the stock had to be driven to the east
slopes.
At
last spring came and about six acres, where they had cut off the tall grass
for hay, was ready to plow. As soon as the snow was off, they hauled poles
and made a shanghai fence around it. About one acre was planted in barley
corn, from the four native ears Bill had brought from Walla Walla, with
some they had brought from home. Carefully, the eyes of the potatoes were
cut out long before they were planted and carefully kept moist. The garden
and a few flower seeds Liza had so zealously guarded all winter were put
in just as soon as the ground could be made ready. My! How those vegetables
did grow in the new ground, and how good they did taste!
While
the Grande Ronde has proven to be wheat country, they were not disappointed
in that first batch of corn, for in the fall they gathered six or seven
sacks and took them to the Isaac and Jacob’s mill at Walla Walla and had
the corn ground into corn-meal. The wheat also yielded well and this they
threshed out with a flail and ground it themselves in a big coffee mill.
Then from the garden there were potatoes, turnips, carrots and cabbage,
which they buried in a big pit in the ground.
How
they missed fruit that first winter. But not the second, for in the early
summer they found wild currants and gooseberries. Then later, and service
berries and choke berries. These were mixed in equal parts and made a delicious
jam. Gallons and gallons of elderberries, and best of all, huckleberries,
were dried for pies and sauce and then in later years, they made a trip
each fall to Walla Walla for fruit.
Mountain
trout could be caught in the streams, and prairie chickens, ducks and geese
nested along the small streams. How many custard and bread puddings were
made from the eggs of these wild fowl!
Either
the first or second winter, Jimmy went his only term of school, the Iowa
Steelement having the first schoolhouse in the valley outside of LaGrande.
This little log schoolhouse stood about half a mile from the present Iowa
schoolhouse, about where the Hoyt’s round barn now stands. Mr. Heskett,
Mrs. John Shaw’s father, was the first teacher. His two boys, Frank and
Bud, three Chamberlin children, Jimmy and a young man named George Whittlemire
(who was 26 years old) were the first pupils. Every Friday afternoon they
had a spelling match from an old McGuffey spellin’ book and it was always
nip and tuck between Jimmy and George. When the final match came, it soon
narrowed down to Jimmy and George as usual.
“Parteer”
pronounced the teacher. It was George’s word.
“P-a-r-t-e-e”
spelled George.
“R”
shouted Jimmy dancing up and down.
“How’s
that?” asked the teacher.
“P-a-r-t-e-e-r”
triumphantly spelled Jimmy.
“Right.”
Said the teacher.
The
next winter was an open winter and fencing could be gotten out until late
in the year and as John and Liza had moved to the other side of the valley,
Jimmy was chief cook at home. So father Woodell gave Jimmy and Doon their
lessons at home in the evenings.
Finding
out that first winter, that the fall did not fall as deep on the east slopes
as on the west, in the fall of 1863, John and Liza decided to build their
home on the east side, so all hand turned out and built their first cabin
on the place which has been known for so many years as the Willey place.
But the house was not down on the flat as it is now, but up on the bluff
where there was a dandy spring. Here looking out over the valley, which
was a sea of waving bunch grass and rye grass as tall as a man or horse,
Liza spent her second winter in the new land. Little Maggie was nearing
six now and baby Sallie was two. In April, another little baby girl, Martha
Jane, arrived. Also the rattle snakes, for it seemed the big cool spring
was a favorite haunt of theirs. Also, those rocky bluffs were their home.
But they had gone into winter quarters when the Wallsingers arrived, so
did not contest the place until the next spring.
One
day, Liza killed 15 big fellows. They got so they were not so much afraid
of them and no one was ever bitten. Liza had brought a few chickens with
her from Iowa, and these she prized very highly. Those big rattlers would
just swallow the little chickens whole. Whenever she would hear the hens
making a fuss, she would say, “Maggie, run out and see if the snakes are
after the chickens,” and little Maggie would throw rocks at them until
her mother could come and kill them.
Another
day, when Doon came over, he suggested to Maggie that they go down to the
willows and get some long switches to hit the snakes with. This they did.
The switches were about four feet long with a little bunch of leaves left
at the end and how those snakes would slither back to the rocks when the
children got after them with the switches. Every few days Doon would come
over and get Maggie more snake switches.
Second
Section Of Pioneer Story
The
mines on North Powder river were a good market for all the vegetables the
settlers could raise, so John and Eliza planted a big garden that spring.
One day as they were working in the garden, a thunder storm came up. Baby
Jane was asleep in the house and Eliza told Maggie to take Sallie and go
to the house. She was afraid the thunder would waken the baby. Now Magie
was afraid of thunder, but she knew she had to mind. When the rain drove
Liza in, no children were to be seen, but bumps in the bed told their whereabouts.
Someone had said in Maggie’s hearing, that if you got under a feather bed,
lightning could not strike you. Baby Jane was almost smothered.
This
year of 1863 saw many new families in the valley, and in the fall, David
Thompson and a party of surveyors came in and surveyed the valley. That
summer, Jimmy made his first big trip as a freighter. Bill, with the big
wagon and ox-team, Jimmy with the horses and small wagon, started to Umatilla
landing with a load of freight for the mines at Auburn.
All
went well until they came to the top of Cayuse Hill, where the road drops
from the Blue Mountains to the Umatilla River, near Pendleton. Jimmy was
in the lead and just on the brow of the hill, he met a Mexican coming up
who had a bright red blanket tied on behind his saddle. The horses took
one look, reared up in the air and bolted. Down that hill they went on
high, the Mexican following close behind. Bill took one look at little
Jimmy bouncing around on the seat of the swaying wagon, unyoked the oxen
from the wagon and started on the run after the Mexican. When he got to
the bottom, there lay the horses, their legs waving frantically in the
air, and the Mexican trying to lift the wagon box off Jimmy’s legs. Together
they righted the team and wagon, gathered up the oxen, made a bed for Jimmy
in the bed of the wagon, tying his team behind the ox-team and on into
Pendleton! There Bill found a doctor who said Jimmy had no bones broken,
but was just shaken up and bruised. They stayed there all night and next
morning, Jimmy still in a bed in the wagon box, they started for the landing.
As luck would have it, the freight boat was three days late, and had been
held up somehow at Celilo Falls. When it did come and they got loaded,
Jimmy was able to take his place on the seat again, but Bill decreed he
should go behind the ox-team. This was the only freighting trip they took
that year.
The
next year Bill took up a homestead, adjoining his father’s and they built
two hewed-log cabins about half a mile apart, just south of the first cabin,
in what was always called the swale. More fencing was to be done, more
land to be put into crops. The county had settled up quite rapidly in the
two years and there were between four and five hundred people there now.
In October, 1864, Union County was organized. Before this, the valley had
been part of Baker Co
It
was not until the summer of 1866 that Jimmy took another freighting trip.
He was a strong, tall lad of 16 now and no one, not even Liza called him
“Jimmy” any more. From then on he was “Jim.” In the summer of ’66 he hired
out to a man named Shroder, who was freighting to Boise. He had one 11,
and one 12-yoke team of oxen and five wagons. They followed the old immigrant
trail through Ladd canyon, and on the return trip, had no freight, so Mr.
Shroder left the outfit in Jim’s hands this side of Baker, somewhere near
North Powder, and came on to LaGrande on horseback to see about getting
a load of flour for the return trip. Jim was only 16, you remember, and
22 oxen and five wagons was quite an outfit for a boy to bring through
the canyon. Mr. Shroder expected him to camp at the head of the canyon,
but he came right through and when Mr. Shroder came out to meet him, he
was on his way across the valley.
“Well,
I got the flour allright,” he said. “Well, you’ll have to hunt another
driver,” Jim said, “I’m going home.” “why what’s the matter with you? You’re
just a boy, but you’re one of the best drivers I ever had,” said Shroder.
But
Jim insisted he was through, for the oxen are slow-moving creatures, the
load had been heavy, they had not made many miles a day and at every camping
place, the seasoned freighters had left behind them some of their bed-fellows.
These were called “cooties” by our overseas boys, but by the old-time freighters,
“graybacks.” Jim was yound and tender and he had acquired a goodly number.
To Mr. Shroder’s insisting, he finally blurted out: “I’ve got lice on me.
I’m done and I’m going home.” “Oh, that’s nothing, all the freighters have
them. I’ll get you a change of clothes and have Mehaffey fix up something
at the drug store to put on them.” But nothing doing – Jim had had enough.
That ended the freighting business.
Doon
had a little Indian pony and with a rope hackamore around his nose, would
gallop madly across the valley to Liza’s every few days. One day when he
arrived, she had baby Jane in her arms and was just starting down to spend
the afternoon with Mrs. Ownsby, who lived on what is now the Gray place.
She turned to Maggie and said, “Now don’t you young ones get into the syrup
while I’m gone, and keep the snakes away from the chickens.” She had no
more than gotten out of sight when Doon said, “Let’s make candy.” “Mother
said to keep out of the syrup,” said Maggie.
“Well,
how’s she going to know it?” So he built up the fire and made the candy.
While he pulled it, Maggie washed up all the dishes. “Muvver’s comin’,”
cried little Sallie, standing in the door. Doon hastily stuffed the taffy
down the front of his shirt. “You tell Liza we are gouing to get the cows,”
he ordered Maggie. “All right,” Liza said, “but don’t be too long.” Away
they tramped and as soon as they were out of sight of the house, sat down
and ate all their taffy. Maggie was grown before she ever told her mother
the taffy story.
After
spending two years in the Walla Walla country, Joe came back in the summer
of ’64. He was now 21 and so many settlers had come in in the two years,
LaGrande was a village with several stores, a postoffice and a blacksmith
shop. He decided to stay and homestead 160 acres just east from where the
first cabin was built and he and a young Irishman, Pat Reddick, built a
log cabin in the southwest corner of what is now the Jim Woodell place.
He at once began fencing it and putting in a crop. He lived there for several
years and in the fall of 1868, the Wallsingers sold the snake farm to a
man by the name of Keys and moved in with him that winter.
The
next spring they built the first house to be built on the Sandridge, near
a warm spring on what is now the Bill Rickman place. Several large poplar
trees mark the place today, just north of the Ruckman home.
The
early settlers thought the Sandridge was worthless, that nothing would
grow in that sand and it was years before nmuch of it was taken up. This
place was near several of the trails used by the Umatilla and Nez Perce
tribes on their way to the hunting and fishing grounds in Wallowa county.
The Wallsinger children, while not afraid of snakes, were terribly afraid
of the Indians, and more than once hid out in the fields but were never
molested.
They
had a big bulldog which they called “Old Bull.” One night, it was in harvest
time, John and Liza had gone to father Woodell’s where the harvesting was
to start. Doon was to come over and stay with the children, but for some
reason he did not come the first night. The last thing Liza said to Maggie,
who was about 11 years old now, was: “You keep Bull sicked on the Imbler
cows, and don’t let them get in the garden.”
Along
in the night sometime, Maggie heard the bells of the Imbler cows coming.
There was one old red cow, which would just stick her horns under the top
rail, the rider, it was called, lift it of across the crossed stakes, butt
the fence over and walk right in. Maggie routed out little Jane, 5, and
taking Bull, she ran those cows clear home. But when they got back, how
dark and spooky the house looked, and they were afraid to go in. Opening
the door she said, “Indians, Bull, sic ‘em, sic ‘em, Bull,” and in he went,
sniffed all around and out he came, wagging his tail, and then they all
went in, Bull lying down at the side of the bed, and all were soon fast
asleep. But they were mighty glad to see Doon when he came the next night.
Here
we are going to leave them until next year.
The
two big boys are grown men now; Jim, Doon and little Maggie are fast growing
up and in the next few years, there will be five weddings, five new homes
started and Mary Margaret German, the sister who stayed in Iowa, and her
family will come west.