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EARLY SETTLEMENTS
The first permanent settlement
by the whites within the limits of Iowa was made by Julien
Dubuque, in 1788, when, with a small party of miners, he
settled on the site of the city that now bears his name,
where he lived until his death, in 1810. Louis Honori settled
on the site of the present town of Montrose, probably in
1799, and resided there until 1805, when his property passed
into other hands. Of the Girard settlement, opposite Prairie
du Chien, little is known, except that it was occupied
by some parties prior to the commencement of the present
century, and contained three cabins in 1805. Indian traders,
although not strictly to be considered settlers, had established
themselves at various points at an early date. A Mr. Johnson,
agent of the American Fox Company, had a trading post below
Burlington, where he carried on traffic with the Indians
some time before the United States possessed the country.
In miles above Keokuk, in Lee County. In 1829, Dr. Isaac
Gallaud made a settlement on the Lower Rapids, at what
is now Nashville.
The first settlement in Lee
County was made in 1820, by Dr. Samuel C. Muir, a surgeon
in the United States army, who had been stationed at Fort
Edwards, now Warsaw, Ill., and who built a cabin where
the city of Keokuk now stands. Dr. Muir was a man of strict
integrity and irreproachable character. While stationed
at a military post on the Upper Mississippi, he had married
an Indian woman of the Fox nation. Of his marriage, the
following romantic account is given:
The
post at which he was stationed was visited by a beautiful
Indian maiden—whose native name, unfortunately,
has not been preserved—who, in her dreams, had
seen a white brave unmoor his canoe, paddle it across
the river and come directly to her lodge. She felt assured,
according to the superstitious belief of her race, that,
in her dreams, she had seen her future husband, and had
come to the fort to find him. Meeting Dr. Muir, she instantly
recognized him as the hero of her dream, which, with
childlike innocence and simplicity, she related to him.
Her dream was, indeed, prophetic. Charmed with Sophia's
beauty, innocence and devotion, the doctor honorably
married her; but after a while, the sneers and gibes
of his brother

167
officers—less
honorable than he, perhaps—made him feel ashamed
of his dark-skinned wife, and when his regiment was ordered
down the river, to Bellefontaine, it is said he embraced
the opportunity to rid himself of her, and left her,
never expecting to see her again, and little dreaming
that she would have the courage to follow him. But, with
her infant child, this intrepid wife and mother started
alone in her canoe, and, after many days of weary labor
and a lonely journey of nine hundred miles, she, at last,
reached him. She afterward remarked, when speaking of
this toilsome journey down the river in search of her
husband, "When I got there I was all perished away—so
thin!" The doctor, touched by such unexampled devotion,
took her to his heart, and ever after, until his death,
treated her with marked respect. She always presided
at his table with grace and dignity, but never abandoned
her native style of dress. In 1819-20, he was stationed
at Fort Edward, but the senseless ridicule of some of
his brother officers on account of his Indian wife induced
him to resign his commission.
After
building his cabin, as above stated, he leased his claim
for a term of years to Otis Reynolds and John Culver,
of St. Louis, and went to La Pointe, afterward Galena,
where he practiced his profession for ten years, when
he returned to Keokuk. His Indian wife bore to him four
children—Louise (married at Keokuk, since dead),
James, (drowned at Keokuk), Mary and Sophia. Dr. Muir
died suddenly of cholera, in 1832, but left his property
in such condition that it was soon wasted in vexatious
litigation, and his brave and faithful wife, left friendless
and penniless, became discouraged, and, with her children,
disappeared, and, it is said, returned to her people
on the Upper Missouri.
Messrs. Reynolds & Culver,
who had leased Dr. Muir's claim at Keokuk, subsequently
employed as their agent Mr. Moses Stillwell, who arrived
with his family in 1828, and took possession of Muir's
cabin. His brothers-in-law, Amos and Valencourt Van Ansdal,
came with him and settled near.
His daughter, Margaret Stillwell
(afterward Mrs. Ford) was born in 1831, at the foot of
the rapids, called by the Indians Puch-a-she-tuck, where
Keokuk now stands. She was probably the first white American
child born in Iowa.
In 1831, Mr. Johnson, Agent
of the American Fur Company, who had a station at the foot
of the rapids, removed to another location, and Dr. Muir
having returned from Galena, he and Isaac R. Campbell took
the place and buildings vacated by the Company and carried
on trade with the Indians and half-breeds. Campbell, who
had first visited and traveled through the southern part
of Iowa, in 1821, was an enterprising settler, and besides
trading wit the natives carried on a farm and kept a tavern.
Dr. Muir died of cholera in
1832.
In 1830, James L. and Lucius
H. Langworthy, brothers and natives of Vermont, visited
the Territory for the purpose of working the lead mines
at Dubuque. They had been engaged in lead mining at Galena,
Illinois, the former from as early as 1824. The lead mines
in the Dubuque region were an object of great interest
to the miners about Galena, for they were known to be rich
in lead ore. To explore these mines and to obtain permission
to work them was therefore eminently desirable.
In 1829, James L. Langworthy
resolved to visit the Dubuque mines. Crossing the Mississippi
at a point now known as Dunleith, in a canoe, and swimming
his horse by his side, he landed on the spot now known
as Jones Street Levee. Before him spread out a beautiful
prairie, on which the city of Dubuque now stands. Two miles
south, at the mouth of Catfish Creek, was a village of
Sacs and Foxes. Thither Mr. Langworthy proceeded, and was
well received by the natives. He endeavored to obtain permission
from them to mine in their hills, but this they refused.
He, however, succeeded in gaining the confidence of the
chief to such an extent as to be allowed travel in the
interior for three weeks and explore the country. He employed
two young Indians as guides, and traversed in different
directions the whole region lying between the Maquoketa
and Turkey Rivers. He returned to the village, secured
the good will of the Indians, and, returning to Galena,
formed plans for future operations, to be executed as soon
as circumstances would permit.

168
In 1830, with his brother,
Lucius H., and others, having obtained the consent of the
Indians, Mr. Langworthy crossed the Mississippi and commenced
mining in the vicinity around Dubuque.
At this time, the lands were
not in the actual possession of the United States. Although
they had been purchased from France, the Indian title had
not been extinguished, and these adventurous persons were
beyond the limits of any State or Territorial government.
The first settlers were therefore obliged to be their own
law-makers, and to agree to such regulations as the exigencies
of the case demanded. The first act resembling civil legislation
within the limits of the present State of Iowa was done
by the miners at this point, in June, 1830. They met on
the bank of the river, by the side of an old cottonwood
drift log, at what is now the Jones Street Levee, Dubuque,
and elected a Committee, consisting of J. L. Langworthy,
H. F. Lander, James McPhetres, Samuel Scales, and E. M.
Wren. This may be called the first Legislature in Iowa,
the members of which gathered around that old cottonwood
log, and agreed to and reported the following, written
by Mr. Langworthy, on a half sheet of coarse, unruled paper,
the old log being the writing desk:
We,
a Committee having been chosen to draft certain rules
and regulations (laws) by which we as miners will be
governed, and having duly considered the subject, do
unanimously agree that we will be governed by the regulations
on the east side of the Mississippi River,* with the
following exceptions, to wit:
ARTICLE
I. That each and every man shall hold 200 square
yards of ground by working said ground one day in six.
ARTICLE
II. We further agree that there shall be
chosen, by the majority of the miners present, a person
who shall hold this article, and who shall grant letters
of arbitration on application having been made, and that
said letters of arbitration shall be obligatory on the
prairie as applying.
The report was accepted by
the miners present, who elected Dr. Jarote, in accordance
with Article 2. Here, then, we have, in 1830, a primitive
Legislature elected b the people, the law drafted by it
being submitted to the people for approval, and under
it Dr. Jarote was elected first Governor within the limits
of the present State of Iowa. And it is to be said that
the laws thus enacted were as promptly obeyed, and the
acts of the executive officer thus elected as duly respected,
as any have been since.
The miners who had thus erected
an independent government of their own on the west side
of the Mississippi River continued to work successfully
for a long time, and the new settlement attracted considerable
attention. But the west side of the Mississippi belonged
to the Sac and Fox Indians, and the Government, in order
to preserve peace on the frontier, as well as to protect
the Indians in their rights under the treaty, ordered the
settlers not only to stop mining, but to remove from the
Indian territory. They were simply intruders. The execution
of this order was entrusted to Col. Zachary Taylor, then
in command of the military post at Prairie du Chien, who,
early in July, sent an officer to the miners with orders
to forbid settlement, and to command the miners to remove
within ten days to the east side of the Mississippi, or
they would be driven off by armed force. The miners, however,
were reluctant about leaving the rich "leads" they had
already discovered and opened, and were not disposed to
obey the order to remove with any considerable degree of
alacrity. In due time, Col. Taylor dispatched a detachment
of troops to enforce his order. The miners, anticipating
their arrival, had, excepting three, recrossed the river,
and from the east bank saw the troops land on the western
shore. The three who had lingered a little too long were,
however, permitted to make their escape———
*
Established by the Superintendent of U. S. Lead mines
at Fever River.

169
unmolested. From this time, a military force
was stationed at Dubuque to prevent the settlers from returning,
until June, 1832. The Indians returned, and were encouraged
to operate the rich mines opened by the late white occupants.
In June, 1832, the troops were
ordered to the east side to assist in the annihilation
of the very Indians whose rights they had been protecting
on the west side. Immediately after the close of the Black
Hawk war, and the negotiations of the treaty in September,
1832, by which the Sacs and Foxes ceded to the United States
the tract known as the "Black Hawk Purchase," the settlers,
supposing that now they had a right to re-enter the territory,
returned and took possession of their former claims, built
cabins, erected furnaces and prepared large quantities
of lead for market. Dubuque was becoming a noted place
on the river, but the prospects of the hardy and enterprising
settlers and miners were again ruthlessly interfered with
by the Government, on the ground that the treaty with the
Indians would not go into force until June 1, 1833, although
they had withdrawn from the vicinity of the settlement.
Col. Taylor was again ordered by the War Department to
remove the miners, and in January, 1833, troops were again
sent from Prairie du Chien to Dubuque for that purpose.
This was a serious and perhaps unnecessary hardship imposed
upon the settlers. They were compelled to abandon their
cabins and homes in mid-winter. It must now be said, simply,
that "red tape" should be respected. The purchase had been
made, the treaty ratified, or was sure to be; the Indians
had retired, and, after the lapse of nearly fifty years,
no very satisfactory reason for this rigorous action of
the Government can be given.
But the orders had been given,
and there was no alternative but to obey. Many of the settlers
recrossed the river, and did not return; a few, however,
removed to an island near the east bank of the river, built
rude cabins of poles, in which to store their lead until
Spring, when they could float the fruits of their labor
to St. Louis for sale, and where they could remain until
the treaty went into force, when they could return. Among
these were James L. Longworthy, and his brother Lucius,
who had on hand about three hundred thousand pounds of
lead.
Lieut. Covington, who had been
placed in command at Dubuque by Col. Taylor, ordered some
of the cabins of the settlers to be torn down, and wagons
and other property destroyed. This wanton and inexcusable
action on the part of a subordinate clothed with a little
brief authority was sternly rebuked by Col. Taylor, and
Covington was superseded by Lieut. George Wilson, who pursued
a just and friendly course with the pioneers, who were
only waiting for the time when they could repossess their
claims.
June 1, 1833, the treaty formally
went into effect, the troops were withdrawn, and the Langworthy
brothers and a few others at once returned and resumed
possession of their home claims and mineral prospects,
and from this time the first permanent settlement of this
portion of Iowa must date. Mr. John P. Sheldon was appointed
Superintendent of the mines by the Government, and a system
of permits to miners and licenses to smelters was adopted,
similar to that which had been in operation at Galena,
since 1825, under Lieut. Martin Thomas and Capt. Thomas
C. Legate. Substantially the primitive law enacted by the
miners assembled around that old cottonwood drift log in
1830 was adopted and enforced by the United States Government,
except that miners were required to sell their mineral
to licensed smelters and the smelter was required to give
bonds for the payment of six per cent, of all lead manufactured
to the Government. This was the same rule adopted in the
United States mines on Fever River in

170
Illinois, except that, until 1830, the Illinois
miners were compelled to pay 10 per cent. tax. This tax
upon the miners created much dissatisfaction among the
miners on the west side as it had on the east side of the
Mississippi. They thought they had suffered hardships and
privations enough in opening the way for civilization,
without being subjected to the imposition of an odious
Government tax upon their means of subsistence, when the
Federal Government could better afford to aid than to extort
from them. The measure soon became unpopular. It was difficult
to collect the taxes, and the whole system was abolished
in about ten years.
During 1833, after the Indian
title was fully extinguished, about five hundred people
arrived at the mining district, about one hundred and fifty
of them from Galena.
In the same year, Mr. Langworthy
assisted in building the first school house in Iowa, and
thus was formed the nucleus of the now populous and thriving
City of Dubuque. Mr. Langworthy lived to see the naked
prairie on which he first landed become the site of a city
of fifteen thousand inhabitants, the small school house
which he aided in constructing replaced by three substantial
edifices, wherein two thousand children were being trained,
churches erected in every part of the city, and railroads
connecting the wilderness which he first explored with
all the eastern world. He died suddenly on the 13th of
March, 1865, while on a trip over the Dubuque & Southwestern
Railroad, at Monticello, and the evening train brought
the news of his death and his remains.
Lucius H. Longworthy, his brother,
was one of the most worthy, gifted and influential of the
old settlers of this section of Iowa. He died, greatly
lamented by many friends, in June, 1865.
The name Dubuque was given
to the settlement by the miners at a meeting held in 1834.
In 1832, Captain James White
made a claim on the present site of Montrose. In 1834,
a military post was established at this point, and a garrison
of cavalry was stationed here, under the command of Col.
Stephen W. Kearney. The soldiers were removed from this
post to Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, in 1837.
During the same year, 1832,
soon after the close of the Black Hawk War, Zachariah Hawkins,
Benjamin Jennings, Aaron White, Augustine Horton,Samuel
Gooch, Daniel Thompson and Peter Williams made claims at
Fort Madison. In 1833, these claims were purchased by by
John and Nathaniel Knapp, upon which, in 1835, they laid
out the town. The next Summer, lots were sold. THe town
was subsequently re-surveyed and platted by the United
States Government.
At the close of the Black Hawk
War, parties who had been impatiently looking across upon
"Flint Hills," now Burlington, came over from Illinois
and made claims. The first was Samuel S. White, in the
Fall of 1832, who erected a cabin on the site of the city
of Burlington. About the same time, David Tothero made
a claim on the prairie about three miles back from the
river, at a place since known as the farm of Judge Morgan.
In the Winter of that year, they were driven off by the
military from Rock Island, as intruders upon the rights
of the Indians, and White's cabin was burnt by the soldiers.
He retired to Illinois, where he spent the Winter, and
in the Summer, as soon as the Indian title was extinguished,
returned and rebuilt his cabin. White was joined by his
brother-in-law, Doolittle, and they laid out the original
town of Burlington in 1834.
All along the river borders
of the Black Hawk Purchase settlers were flocking into
Iowa. Immediately after the treaty with the Sacs and Foxes,
in Septem-

171
ber, 1832, Col. George Davenport made the
first claim on the spot where the thriving city of Davenport
now stands. As early as 1827, Col. Davenport had established
a flatboat ferry, which ran between the island and the
main shore of Iowa, by which he carried on a trade with
the Indians west of the Mississippi. In 1833, Capt. Benjamin
W. Clark, moved across from Illinois, and laid the foundation
of the town of Buffalo, in Scott County. Among other early
settlers in this part of the Territory were Adrian H. Davenport,
Col. John Sullivan, Mulligan and Franklin Easly, Capt.
John Coleman, J. M. Camp, William White, H. W. Higgins,
Cornelius Harrold, Richard Harrison, E. H. Shepherd and
Dr. E. S. Barrows.
The first settlers of Davenport
were Antoine LeClaire, Col. George Davenport, Major Thomas
SMith, Major William Gordon, Philip Hambough, Alexander
W. McGregor, Levi S. Colton, Capt. James May and others.
Of Antoine LeClaire, as the representative of the two races
of men who at this time occupied Iowa, Hon. C. C. Nourse,
in his admirable Centennial Address, says: "Antoine LeClaire
was born at St. Joseph, Michigan, in 1797. His father was
French, his mother a granddaughter of a Pottawatamie chief.
In 1818, he acted as official interpreter to Col. Davenport,
at Fort Armstrong (now Rock Island). He was well acquainted
with a dozen Indian dialects, and was a man of strict integrity
and great energy. In 1820, he married the granddaughter
of a Sac chief. The Sac and Fox Indians reserved for him
and his wife two sections of land in the treaty of 1833,
one at the town of LeClaire and one at Davenport. The Pottawatamie,
in the treaty at Prairie du Chien, also reserved for him
two sections of land, at the present site of Moline, Ill.
He received the appointment of Postmaster and Justice of
the Peace in the Black Hawk Purchase, at an early day.
In 1833, he bought for $100 a claim on the land upon which
the original town of Davenport was surveyed and platted
in 1836. In 1836, LeClaire built the hotel, known since,
with its valuable addition, as the LeClaire house. He died
September 25, 1861."
In Clayton County, the first
settlement was made in the Spring of 1832, on Turkey River,
by Robert Hatfield and William W. Wayman. No further settlement
was made in this part of the State till the beginning of
1836.
In that portion now known as
Muscatine County, settlements were made in 1834, by Benjamin
Nye, John Vanater and G. W. Kasey, who were the first settlers.
E. E. Fay, William St. John, N. Fullington, H. Reece, Jona
Pettibone, R. P. Lowe, Stephen Whicher, Abijah Whiting,
J. E. Fletcher, W. D. Abernethy and Alexis SMith were early
settlers of Muscatine.
During the Summer of 1835,
William Bennett and his family, from Galena, built the
first cabin within the present limits of Delaware County,
in some timber since known as Eads' Grove.
The first post office in Iowa
was established at Dubuque in 1833. Milo H. Prentice was
appointed Postmaster.
The first Justice of the Peace
was Antoine LeClaire, appointed in 1833, as "a very suitable
person to adjust the difficulties between the white settlers
and the Indians still remaining there."
The first Methodist Society
in the Territory was formed at Dubuque on the 18th of May,
1834, and the first class meeting was held June 1st of
that year.
The first church bell brought
into Iowa was in March, 1834.
The first mass of the Roman
Catholic Church in the Territory was celebrated at Dubuque,
in the house of Patrick Quigley, in the Fall of 1833.

172
The first school house in the
Territory was erected by the Dubuque miners in 1833.
The first Sabbath school was
organized at Dubuque early in the Summer of 1834.
The first woman who came to
this part of the Territory with a view to permanent residence
was Mrs. Noble F. Dean, in the Fall of 1832.
The first family that lived
in this part of Iowa was that of Hosea T. Campin in 1832.
The first meeting house was
built by the Methodist Episcopal Church, at Dubuque, in
1834.
The first newspaper in Iowa
was the Dubuque Visitor, issued May 11th, 1836.
John King, afterward Judge King, was editor, and William
C. Jones, printer.
The pioneers of Iowa, as a
class, were brave, hardy, intelligent and enterprising
people.
As early as 1824, a French
trader named Hart had established a trading post, and built
a cabin on the bluffs above the large spring now known
as "Mynster Spring," within the limits of the present city
of Council Bluffs, and had probably been there some time,
as the post was known to the employes of the American Fur
Company as Lacote de Hart, or "Hart's Bluff."
In 1827, an agent of the American Fur Company, Francis
Guittar, with others, encamped in the timber at the foot
of the bluffs, about on the present location of Broadway,
and afterward settled there. In 1839, a block house was
built on the bluff in the east part of the city. The Pottawattamie
Indians occupied this part of Kansas. Billy Caldwell was
then principal chief. There were no white settlers in that
part of the State except Indian traders, until the arrival
of the Mormans under the lead of Brigham Young. These people
on their way westward halted for the Winter of 1846-7 on
the west bank of the Missouri River, about five miles above
Omaha, at a place now called Florence. Some of them had
reached the eastern bank of the river the Spring before,
in season to plant a crop. In the Spring of 1847, Young
and a portion of the colony pursued their journey to Salt
Lake, but a large portion of the returned to the Iowa side
and settled mainly within the limits of Pottawatamie County.
The principal settlement of this strange community was
at a place first called "Miller's Hollow," on Indian Creek,
and afterward named Kanesville, in honor of Col. Kane,
of Pennsylvania, who visited them soon afterward. The Mormon
settlement extended over the county and into neighboring
counties, wherever timber and water furnished desirable
locations. Orson Hyde, priest, lawyer and editor, was installed
as President of the Quorum of Twelve, and all that part
of the State remained under Mormon control for several
years. In 1846, they raised a battalion, numbering some
five hundred men, for the Mexican war. In 1848, Hyde started
a paper called the Frontier Guardian, at Kanesville.
In 1849, after many of the faithful left to join Brigham
Young at Salt Lake, the Mormons in this section of Iowa
numbered 6,552, and in 1850, 7,828, but they were not all
within the limits of Pottawattamie County. This county
was organized in 1848, all the first officials being Mormons.
In 1852, the order was promulgated that all the true believers
should gather together at Salt Lake. Gentiles flocked in,
and in a few years nearly all the first settlers were gone.
May 9, 1843, Captain James
Allen, with a small detachment of troops on board the steamer
Ione, arrived at the present site of the capitol of the
State, Des Moines. The Ione was the first steamer to ascend
the Des Moines River to this point. The troops and stores
were landed at what is now the foot of

173
Court avenue, Des Moines, and Capt. Allen
returned in the steamer to Fort Sanford to arrange for
bringing up more soldiers and supplies. In due time they,
too, arrived, and a fort was built near the mouth of Raccoon
Fork, at its confluence with the Des Moines, and named
Fort Des Moines. Soon after the arrival of the troops,
a trading post was established on the east side of the
river, by two noted Indian traders named Ewing, from Ohio.
Among the first settlers in
this part of Iowa were Benjamin Bryant, J. B. Scott, James
Drake (gunsmith), John Sturtevant, Robert Kinzie, Alexander
Turner, Peter Newcomer, and others.
The Western States have been
settled by many of the best and most enterprising men of
the older States, and a large immigration of the best blood
of the Old World, who, removing to an arena of larger opportunities,
in a more fertile soil and congenial climate, have developed
a spirit and an energy peculiarly Western. In no country
on the globe have enterprises of all kinds been pushed
forward with such rapidity, or has there been such independence
and freedom of competition. Among those who have pioneered
the civilization of the West, and been the founders of
great States, none have ranked higher in the scale of intelligence
and moral worth than the pioneers of Iowa, who came to
the territory when it was an Indian country, and through
hardship, privation and suffering, laid the foundations
of the populous and prosperous commonwealth which to-day
dispenses its blessings to a million and a quarter of people.
From her first settlement and from her first organization
as a territory to the present day, Iowa has had able men
to manage her affairs, wise statesmen to shape her destiny
and frame her laws, and intelligent and impartial jurists
to administer justice to her citizens; her bar, pulpit
and press have been able and widely influential; and in
all the professions, arts, enterprises and industries which
go to make up a great and prosperous commonwealth, she
has taken and holds a front rank among her sister States
of the West.
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