WELCOME

TO THE

HISTORY OF

WASHINGTON COUNTY

IOWA

1880

SKETCH OF CHICAGO.

First White Visitors - The Name - Jean Baptiste - John Kinzie -
Ft. Dearborn - EvacuationThe Massacre - Heroic Women- Capt. Heald - Capt. Wells - Scalping the Wounded - Ft. Dearborn Re-built - Illinois and Michigan Canal - Chicago Laid Out-Removal of Indians - City Organization - Pioneer Religious Societies - Public Improvements - Location of City-Growth - The Great Fire - Rise of the New Chicago.

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Chicago in 1820

Site of Lake Street Bridge


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If, so many centuries after the founding of Rome, mankind still feel interested in the mythical story of Romulus and Remus, may not the present and future generations read with equal interest the more authentic story of the founding of a great modern city?
The Jesuit missionary and explorer; Marquette, first visited the place where Chicago is located, in 1673. Again, in the winter of 1674-5, he camped near the site of the present city, from December until near the close of March. Upon his arrival, in December, the Chicago river was frozen over, and the ground covered with snow. The name is of Indian origin, and was applied to the river. By the French voyageurs it is variously spelled, the majority rendering it Chicayou. The place is mentioned by Berrot in 1770.
     In 1796, Jean Baptiste, a trader from the West Indies, found his way to the mouth of the little stream known as Chicago river, and engaged in trading with the Indians. Here for eight years almost alone, he maintained trade and intercourse with the savages, until, in 1804, Fort Dearborn was erected, and a trading post was established by John Kinzie, who became the successor of Jean Baptiste. Fort Dearborn, as first constructed, was a very rude and primitive stockade, which cost the government only about fifty dollars. It stood on the south bank of Chicago river, half a mile from, the lake. The few soldiers sent to erect and garrison it were in charge of Major Whistler. For a time, being unable to procure grain for bread, the soldiers were obliged to subsist in part upon acorns. The original settler, Jean Baptiste, or as his full name was written, Jean Baptiste Point au Sable, sold his cabin to Mr. Kinzie, and the latter erected on the site the building known to the early settlers as the "Kinzie House." This became a resort for the officers and others connected with the garrison. In 1812 the garrison had a force of 54 men, under the command of Capt. Nathan Heald, with Lieutenant Lenai L. Helm and Ensign Ronan. Dr. Voorhees was surgeon. The only white residents, except the officers and soldiers, at that time, were Mr. Kinzie and his family, the wives of Capt. Heald and Lieut. Helm, and a few Canadians, with their families. Nearly up to this time the most friendly relations had been maintained with the Indians—the principal tribes by whom they were surrounded being the Pottawattamies and Winnebagoes. The battle of Tippecanoe had been fought the year before, and the influence of Tecumseh began to be observable in the conduct of the Indians. They were also aware of the difficulties between the United States and Great Britian [Britain], and had yielded to the influences brought to bear by the latter. In April of this year, suspicious parties of Winnebagoes began to hover about the fort, remaining in the vicinity for several days. The inhabitants became alarmed, and the families took refuge in the fort. On the 7th of August a Pottawattamie chief appeared at the fort with an order or dispatch from Gen. Hull, at Detroit, directing Capt. Heald to evacuate Fort Dearborn, and distribute all the government property to the neighboring Indians. The chief who brought the dispatch advised Capt. Heald to make no distribution to the Indians. He told him it would be better to leave the fort and stores as they were, and that while the Indians were distributing the stores among themselves, the whites might escape to Fort Wayne. On the 12th of August Capt. Heald held a council with the Indians, but the other officers refused to join him. They feared treachery on the part of the Indians, and indeed had been informed that their intention was to murder the white people. In the council Capt. Heald had taken the precaution to open a port-hole displaying

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a cannon directed upon the council, and probably by that means kept the Indians from molesting him at that time. Acting under the advice of Mr. Kinzie, he withheld the ammunition and arms from the Indians, throwing them, together with the liquors, into the Chicago river. On that day Black Partridge, a friendly chief, said to Capt. Heald: "Linden birds have been singing in my ears to-day; be careful on the march you are going to take." On the 13th the Indians discovered the powder floating on the surface of the water, a discovery which had the effect to exasperate them the more, and they began to indulge in threats. Meantime preparations were made to leave the fort.
     Capt. Wells, an uncle of Mrs. Heald, had been adopted by the famous Miami warrior, Little Turtle, and had become chief of a band of Miamis. On the 14th he was seen approaching with a band of his Miami warriors, coming to assist Capt. Heald in defending the fort, having at Fort Wayne heard of the danger which threatened the garrison and the settlers. But all means for defending the fort had been destroyed the night before. All, therefore, took up their line of march, with Capt, Wells and his Miamis in the lead, followed by Capt. Heald, with his wife riding by his side. Mr, Kinzie had always been on the most friendly terms with the Indians, and still hoped that his personal efforts might influence them to allow the whites to leave unmolested; He determined to accompany the expedition, leaving his family in a boat in the care of a friendly Indian. In case any misfortune should happen to him, his family was to be sent to the place where Niles, Michigan, is now located, where he had another trading- post. Along the shore of lake Michigan slowly marched the little band of whites, with a friendly escort of Pottawattamies, and Capt. Wells and his Miamis, the latter in advance. When they had reached what were known as the" Sand Hills," the Miami advance guard came rushing back, Capt. Wells exclaiming, "They are about to attack; form instantly." At that moment a shower of bullets came whistling over the sand hills, behind which the Indians had concealed themselves for the murderous attack. The cowardly Miamis were panic-stricken, and took to flight, leaving their heroic leader to his fate. He was at the side of his niece, Mrs. Heald, when the attack was made, and, after expressing to her the utter hopelessness of their situation, dashed into the fight. There were 54 soldiers, 12 civilians and three women, all poorly armed, against 500 Indian warriors. The little band had no alternative but to sell their lives as dearly as possible. They charged upon their murderous assailants, and drove them from their position back to the prairie. There the conflict continued until two-thirds of the whites were killed and wounded. Mrs. Heald, Mrs Helm and Mrs. Holt, all took part in the combat. In a wagon were twelve children, and a painted demon tomahawked them all, seeing which, Capt. Wells exclaimed, "If butchering women and children is your game, I will kill too," and then spurred his horse toward the Indian camp, where they had left their squaws and papooses, He was pursued by several young warriors, who sent bullets whistling about him, killing his horse and wounding Capt Wells. They attempted to take him a prisoner, but he resolved not to be taken alive. Calling a young chief a squaw, an epithet which excites the fiercest resentment in an Indian warrior, the young chief instantly tomahawked him.
     The three women fought as bravely as the soldiers. Mrs. Heald was an expert in the use of the rifle, but received several severe wounds. During the conflict the hand of a savage was raised to tomahawk her, when she ex-

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claimed in his own language, "Surely you will not kill a squaw." Her words had the effect to change his purpose, and her life was spared. , Another warrior attempted to tomahawk Mrs. Helm. He struck her a glancing blow on the shoulder, when she sized him and attempted to wrest from him his scalping knife, which was in the sheath attached to his belt. At that moment the friendly Black Partridge dragged her from her antagonist, and in spite of her struggles carried her to the lake and plunged her in, at the same time holding her so she would not drown. By this means he saved her life, as he intended. The third woman, Mrs. Holt, the wife of Sergeant Holt, was a large woman, and as strong and brave as an amazon. She rode a fine, spirited horse, which more than once the Indians tried to take from her. Her husband had been disabled in the fight, and with his sword, which she had taken, she kept the savages at bay for some time. She was finally, however, taken prisoner, and remained a long time a captive among the Indians, but was subsequently ransomed.
     After two-thirds of the whites had been slain or disabled, twenty-eight men succeeded in gaining an eminence on the prairie, and the Indians desisted from further pursuit. The chiefs held a consultation, and gave the sign that they were ready to parley. Capt. Heald went forward and met the chief, Blackbird, on the prairie, when terms of surrender were agreed upon. The whites were to deliver up their arms and become prisoners, to be exchanged or ransomed in the future. All were taken to the Indian camp near the abandoned fort, where the wounded Mrs. Helm had previously been taken by Black Partridge. By the terms of surrender no provision had been made as to the disposition of the wounded. It was the understanding of the Indians that the British general, Proctor, had offered a bounty for American scalps delivered at Malden. Here there was another scene of horror. Most of the wounded men were killed and scalped.
Such is a hasty glance at scenes that were witnessed on this then wild shore of Lake Michigan. Such were the experiences and the struggles of the heroic men and women who ventured forth into the wilderness to plant the germs of civilization, and to lay the foundations of future cities and States. The site on which now stands a city which ranks among the greatest on the continent is consecrated by the blood shed by heroes on that bright 15th day of August, 1812. Fort Dearborn was rebuilt in 1816, under the direction of Capt. Bradley, and was occupied until 1837, when, the Indians having removed from the country, it was abandoned.
      Congress, on the 2d of March, 1827, granted to the State of Illinois every alternate section of land for six miles on either side of the line of the then proposed Illinois and Michigan canal, to aid in its construction, from Chicago to the head of navigation of the Illinois river. The State accepted the grant, and on the 22d of January, 1829, organized a board of canal commissioners, with power to layout towns along, the line. Under this authority the commissioners employed Mr. James Thompson to survey the town of Chicago. His first map of the town bears date August 4, 1830. In 1831 the place contained about a dozen families, not including the officers and soldiers in Fort Dearborn. On the 10th of August, 1833, it was organized by the election of five trustees—there being twenty-eight voters. On the 26th of September of the same year, a treaty was signed with the chiefs of the Pottawattamies, seven thousand of the tribe being present, and on the 1st of October they were removed west of the Mississippi. The first charter of

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the city was passed by the Legislature of Illinois, and approved March 4th, 1837. Under this charter an election was held May 1st, of the same year. A census was taken on the 1st of July, when the entire population was shown to be 4,170. The city then contained four warehouses, three hundred and twenty-eight dwellings, twenty-nine dry goods stores, five hardware stores, three drug stores, nineteen provision stores, ten taverns, twenty-six groceries, seventeen lawyers' offices, and five churches. It then embraced an area of 560 acres. At this date grain and flour had to be imported from the East to feed the people, for the iron arteries of trade did not then stretch out over the prairies of Illinois, Iowa, and other States. There were no exportations of produce until 1839, and not until 1842 did the exports exceed the imports. Grain was sold in the streets by the wagon load, the trade being restricted to a few neighboring farmers of Illinois.
     Of religious organizations the Methodists were the pioneers, being represented in 1831, 1832 and 1833, by Rev. Jesse Walker. Their first quarterly meeting was held in the fall of 1833, and in the spring of' the next year the first regular class was formed. The first Presbyterian church was organized June 26th, 1833, the first pastor being Rev. James Porter. It consisted at the time of twenty-five members from the garrison and nine from the citizens of the town. The first Baptist church was organized October 19th, 1833; and the first Episcopal church, St. James, in 1834. The first Catholic church was built by Rev. Schofler, in 1833-4.
     The first great public improvement projected was the Illinois and Michigan canal, one hundred miles in length, and connecting Chicago with La Salle, at the head of navigation on the Illinois river. It was completed in the spring of 1848.
     To the eye of an observer, Chicago seems to be situated upon a level plain, but in reality the height of the natural surface above the lake varies from three to twenty-four feet, and the grade of the principal streets has been raised from two to eight feet above the original surface. A complete system of sewerage has been established. The surrounding prairie for many miles is apparently without much variation of surface. Though it cannot be observed by the eye, yet the city really stands on the dividing ridge between the two great rivers that drain half the continent, and is about six hundred feet above the ocean. Chicago river, before being widened, deepened, and improved, was a very small stream. It has but very little perceptible current, and for several miles is very nearly on a level with the lake. It is formed by two branches, one from the north and the other from south, which unite about a mile from the lake. From this junction the stream flows due east of the lake. These streams divide the city into three parts, familiarly known as North Side, South Side, and West Side. Bridges constructed upon turn-tables, or pivots, are thrown across the streams at many places. By swinging the bridges round, vessels are allowed to be towed up and down the river by steam tugs, so that there is very little difficulty in the way of passing from one division of the city to another. The stream has been made navigable for several miles for sail vessels and propellers, and immense warehouses and elevators have been constructed along its banks, where vessels are loaded and unloaded with great rapidity.
     We have seen that when the first census was taken in 1837, the city had a population of 4,170. By 1840 it had increased to only 4,470; in 1845 it was 12,088; in 1850 it was 28,269; in 1855 it was 83,509. The census of 1870 showed a population 298,977.

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     One of the gigantic public improvements of Chicago is that for supplying the city with water. Owing to the fact that the water in the lake, near the shore, was polluted by filth from the river, in 1865 a tunnel was cut under the lake, extending a distance of two miles from the shore. This tunnel is thirty-five feet below the bed of the lake. This work is regarded as an example of great engineering skill, and has proved to be successful. The contract price for this work was $315,139. Another great work is the tunnel under the Chicago river at Washington street, cut for the purpose of dispensing with the bridge over the river, and to obviate the necessity of the public waiting for vessels to pass. The contract price for this great work was $200,000.
     There are other great public improvements of the city, which with her railroads leading out in all directions, her immense lake shipping trade, and her population of nearly half a million people, show the greatness that Chicago has attained, all within so short a time. As she has been great in her prosperity, so also has she been great in her calamities. On the 8th and 9th of October, 1871, this city was the scene of one of the greatest conflagrations known in the annals of the world—greater than that of London in 1666, when thirteen thousand buildings were burned. In Chicago twenty thousand buildings were swept away by the devouring element, with miles of magnificent business blocks, palatial residences, and costly ornamentations—all covering an area of over five thousand acres! In all that part of the city between Harrison street and the Chicago river, and on the North Side for nearly four miles to Lincoln Park, there was nothing to be seen but the ruins of a city that had suddenly gone down at the merciless bidding of the fire-fiend. It was a scene of desolation and ruin, and its announcement at the time thrilled a sympathetic chord which vibrated throughout the whole civilized world. Like the fabled Phoenix, Chicago rose again from her own ashes, but grander and more magnificent than she was before. Chicago is now, and has for some years been, the greatest pork packing-and grain shipping market of the world. Her commerce is of immense proportions and reaches to all lands where American trade is known. She is the commercial metropolis of the great Northwest, and the States of Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, Wisconsin and Minnesota, pour their tributes of wealth over thousands of miles of railroad into her lap.

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Fort Dearborn, 1830

"Old Kinzie House"


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