CHAPTER XIII
FIRST CANOE RIDE
THE sun had never shone
more brightly, nor the waters danced more gaily in
its beams; never the birds sang more sweetly, nor
a heart beat more in unison with the scene, than when,
for the first time, I seated myself in a canoe, bound
up stream, with two Indian girls at the "paddles."
Probably my appearance was very ungraceful in their
eyes, for they laughed merrily at my awkward sitting,
and finally scolded, hinting at the probability of
my getting a "ducking;" and there was
sufficient proof that a well-balanced head was requisite
for the safety of the light craft so heavily freighted.
Once under way, the novelty
was pleasing in the extreme. The scenery was delightful,
and amidst Nature's profound silence, scenes, tragic
and comic, that had transpired in "these ends
of the earth," were rehearsed by the accompanying
missionaries. Soon the mosquitos began to show a "keen
demand of appetite," and when, nearly frantic
from their attacks, sea-sickness overpowered me, I
yielded defenceless to their combined power.
The cry of "Patah-watah"
arose from the squaws, and unbelief was changed to
certainty by the peculiar notes of "high pressure
in the distance," and the little "Argo"
soon left us rocking in her wake. When we had passed
up the "slough," and made our moorings beneath
the bluff, where now stands the Upper Town, the first
order of exercise was to place an Indian blanket beneath
the
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shade of maple, which was my first resting
place in St. Paul. A cold crystal spring issued from
a rock at a little distance, whence water was brought
which had an almost magical effect, and I have always
believed that none so pure ever came welling
up to the surface from earth's centre [center].
The stranger, or the citizen
even, would fail to recognize the scene which lay
around and above, as any part of the ground now occupied
by Minnesota's thriving capital. The high bluff almost
forbade an attempted ascent. The noon-day breeze played
joyfully among the huge maples and smaller trees,
which effectually shut out the sun's gaze from the
dancing brook, as it entered the Mississippi a few
rods above. Following an Indian trail, we wound around
the base of the bluff, when suddenly we were cheered
by the sound of human voices, and stooping, could
discern some women washing at the brook. The scene
was enchanting. A vague and indefinite pleasure possessed
the heart, and my only wish was that some appreciating
friend might share the joys which Nature spread before
me. How little was realized then, that here the "woodman's
axe" was so soon to resound, the surveyor's chain
to mark out a city, and the costly dwelling and substantial
business block to rise, while numerous steamers should
crowd the landing of that canoe, making our streets
swarm with life, gayety and business bustle! Two years,
and all this change is in progress; six more, and
we have the actual reality, as if it were the work
of magic. Workmen of every craft have been engaged,
and the rapidity with which it is driven forward astonishes
even themselves. Every department of business and
science has its representatives; and the little fair-haired
girl, with her meek blue eyes, who timidly stepped
aside to
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let us pass, and remained half concealed
by the bushes, looking more like a wood-nymph than
the living personation of flesh and blood, has grown
to be a scholar and a belle, as a part of this wonderful
progress.
Turning from Nature, what
a cheerless prospect greeted this view. A few log
huts composed the "town"—three families
the American population. With one of these, distant
from the rest, a home was offered me. Their's was
the dwelling—the only one of respectable
size—containing three rooms and an attic.
The kindness and attention
bestowed upon strangers in the early stages of western
settlement, are proverbial the world over; nor are
they overrated. A welcome hand, a warm heart, an open
cabin, a full board, the best room and best bed—are
sure to greet them. Every individual added to the
population, adds an important item to its history.
In after years, when it has swelled to thousands,
hundreds arrive in a day and remain unnoticed. Each
one becomes absorbed in his own interest and is lost
in the whirlpool of the rapid influx. Yet the heart
beats as warmly as ever, and really bids the same
welcome.
A few days previous to
my coming, the "Red River train" arrived,
an event at that time of semi-annual occurrence, and
one hundred and twenty-one ox teams were encamped
in the rear of the landing, where now stands the Lower
Town. The principal men of the company had found fare
and lodging with the few families, while the remainder
encamped with their cattle, sleeping as they had done
on the route, in their carts or upon the ground. Their
cargoes, composed of valuable furs and rare specimens
of Chippewa embroidery, were taken to St.
Louis. These carts are without a particle of iron,
but are very strong; before each a single ox is harnessed,
and thus in
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Indian file had they passed over nine
hundred miles in fifty days. Of the Red River settlement
we shall have more to say hereafter.
The captain of this caravan
had brought with him his wife, a Scotch half-breed,
for the first time out of their settlement, and a
child of a year old, and a cow was attached to their
cart for its benefit. All seemed full of health and
life, with no apparent fatigue from the journey.
Such was the crowd in
St. Paul, it was thought best that I should return
to the Mission, to remain until it had dispersed,
and proper arrangements could be made for the commencement
of the school.
Chapter XIV
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