WOODBURY COUNTY.

CHAPTER III.

EARLY SETTLEMENT OF SIOUX CITY AND VICINITY.
CHANGE TO CIVILIZED LIFE-THE CLARK AND LEWIS EXPEDITION OF 1804--SERGEANT FLOYD'S DEATH-EXPEDITION OF 1839-AMERICAN FUR COMPANY-THOMPSON'S SETTLEMENT IN 1848-THEOPHILE BRUGUIER'S SETTLEMENT ON THE BIG SIOUX-"WAR EAGLE" BECAME HIS FATHER-IN-LAW SETTLEMENT OF ROBERT PERRY, JO. LEONAIS, PAUL PACQUETTE AND GUS. PECAUT-FIRST WHITE FAMIY-FIRST CHILD-MRS. SANGSTER'S STORY-THE CANADIAN-FRENCH-WILD GAME-PIONEER C. K. SMITH'S. RECOLLECTIONS-DR. JOHN K. COOK, FOUNDER OF SIOUX CITY-SIOUX CITY BY THE PEN OF DR. S. P. YEOMANS-LIFE IN THE "FIFTIES"-"ONGIE WAR"-FUR TRADE-BIG SIOUX BRIDGE HISTORY.

To the readers of local history, the chapter relating to the early settlement of a country is of general interest. Especially is this the case with pioneers themselves; those who have witnessed the, changes that have been made; who have seen a trackless prairie transformed into a beautiful country and filled with an enterprising, happy and prosperous people. The pioneer here reads slowly and critically every word recalling memories of the dead past, which for a whole, generation have been buried among the host of recollections, which now rise up before him like a half vanished dream. The old-time, associations, the deeds, the trials and battles against hunger and cold, while the settlers were few and far between; when the wolves howled about the little log cabin, sending a chill to his heart; when the wind drove the shifting snow through the crevices—all now rise vividly before him. Often it is with pleasure he can recall these recollections, viewing with satisfaction the thought that he lived to see a wealthy land dotted with school-houses and churches, villages and cities.

But again, it will be with sadness that the past is recalled, and thoughts will spring up of the dark and painful side of those early days. How a wife, whose virtues, bravery and simplicity will always be remembered, or a child prattling in innocence, was called from earth to the eternal home, and laid away under the sod, in solemn quietude, by the rough, yet tender hands of a few hardy pioneers

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Time had partially allayed the sting, but the wound is now uncovered by the allusion to days gone by, and the cases are not few when a tear of bitter sadness wiIl course down the cheek, in honor of the memory of those who have departed.

Pioneers are born, not made. Not every man or woman has the sterling qualities of the pioneer. Not every nation can produce them. The colonizing germ is not found with every race. The Anglo-Saxon race is pre-eminently a race of pioneers. Its greatest glory has been to plant colonies and form states.

Notwithstanding, however, the many disadvantages and even sorrows attendant upon the first steps of civilization, and the adversities to be encountered, the pioneers led a happy life. The absence of the aristocratic and domineering power, which is to-day so apparent, must have been a source of comfort. Then, merit alone insured equality, and this could not be suppressed by traditions. The brotherhood of man was illustrated in a sincere and practical way, and hospitality was not considered so much a Christian trait as a duty to humanity.

But a few decades ago and the Indian tribes held this goodly heritage as a hunting ground, but some one must be the first to look upon the fair domain with the view of setting up a Christian civilization. In 1804 the famous Clark and Lewis expedition was sent out and passed up the "Big Muddy" (Missouri) river to its headwaters. On August 20, that year, one of their number, Sergt. Charles Floyd, died and was buried on the bluffs now bearing his name. A cedar post marked the spot for many years; finally the river washed in upon his narrow resting place, and the remains of the early explorer were deposited farther back from the river, where they sti1l repose. Both Sergeant's Bluff and Floyd river take their name from him.

In 1839, about one hundred men, trappers and explorers, left St. Louis on the steamer "Antelope" for the regions of the upper Missouri, where they were engaged with the American Fur Company. They proceeded with the steamer as far as Little Cheyenne island, and then they were obliged to leave the boat on account of shallow water. These hardy adventurers made themselves a Mackinaw, and by the use of drag ropes proceeded on their way to the headwaters, where they engaged in hunting, trapping and trafficing with the Indians. Some remained there while others found the way back to civilization, and a portion of the party located in and near Sioux City.

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Among them were Joseph Leonais, Albert Peltier, Paul Pacquette, John La Plant, George L. Tackett, —Le Blanc and Gustave Pecaut. Johnny Brasos (colored), whom many of the early settlers remember as the violinist, and who was about eighty years of age in 1860, claimed he came up the Missouri river to this point with the notorious outlaw, Mike Fink; and one day when sunning himself on the river bank, had his projecting heel shot off by that historic character, as a mere sample of his marksmanship. Johnny Brasos always affirmed that he was the "first white man" to invade this locality. Still he was black as the blackest of his race.

In the summer of 1848, William Thompson settled near Floyd's Bluff, and was soon followed by an older brother, named Charles, and another man whose name is now forgotten. They were the only white men to spend the winter of 1848-49 in Woodbury county. Anticipating an immense immigration, he laid out a town there and named it in honor of himself, calling it Thompsontown (known in record as Floyd's Bluff). For a short period this was looked upon as the coming town. A log house was built there, and when the county was organized in 1853, this point was made the county seat. It was a sort of post for Indian traders for some years, but the roughness of the land thereabouts would not admit of the final building of a city, and all trace of a town site has long since been obliterated.

Theophile, Bruguier
(click on image for full size)

During the month of May, 1849, Theophile Bruguier, a native of Canada, but of French descent, settled at the mouth of the Big Sioux river, about two miles above Sioux City. He had visited the spot and selected the location some three years before. He had been in the employ of the American Fur Company a short time, but left them and joined the Yankton Sioux Indians and finally married a daughter of the celebrated chieftain, War Eagle. Bruguier became a prominent man in the tribe. After he remained with them about ten years he concluded to change his mode of living, and with his Indian wife and children, came down the river and settled on the spot that had attracted his attention years before. War Eagle, his father-in-law, died at his house in 1851. His remains, with those of Bruguier, wife and two daughters, now repose on the summit of a lofty bluff at the mouth of the Big Sioux. From this spot may be seen, for many miles, the windings of the broad Missouri, the far-off Blackbird hills of Nebraska, the islands, the rich bottom lands, and the groves of Iowa, Nebraska and South Dakota.

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HISTORY OF WOODBURY AND PLYMOUTH COUNTIES.

Some time during the autumn of 1849, Robert Perry, a somewhat eccentric character, but a man of fine education, came from Washington, D. C., and effected a settlement on the creek now bearing his name. He remained only two years.

In 1850 Paul Pacquette settled two miles up stream from the mouth of the Big Sioux.

In 1852 Joseph Leonais purchased of Bruguier, before mentioned, the quarter section on which is now situated the business portion of Sioux City. He resided on the tract about three years.

Gustave Pecaut, a Frenchman, who was with the party employed by the American Fur Company, went to the head-waters of the Missouri river in 1848, remained until 1852, when he came back as far as the present Sioux City. Louis Phillip, a clerk for the fur company, returned with him, and both located lands here. Pecaut squatted on land just north from the Pacquette place. In about 1856 he, in company with Judge Griffey and others, platted the town of Covington, Neb. On that plat Mr. Pecaut lived for twenty-six years. He now resides in Sioux City.

The First Family.-The subjoined interview with Joseph Leonais, the first settler at Sioux City, gives much information concerning the first event of this locality. This interview took place in January, 1887.

Joseph Leonais is a short, spare, well-preserved Frenchman. The sixty-seven winters that have nipped him, have but slightly silvered his hair or slowed his quick step. It was in 1837 he left St. Louis for a trip up the Missouri. The year previous he had left his home in Lower Canada to seek his fortune in the west. He says St. Louis was a small town then, and that he was offered the best located lot in the place for $25. He saw the first trace of Indians at St. Joseph, Mo., which place was a mere Indian trading post for the American Fur Company. Leonais went up the Yellowstone, visiting Ft. Benton, Ft. Pierre, Ft. Buford and Ft. Vermillion. He worked for $15 per month for the fur company. On each up-bound Mackinaw boat were twenty-five men. For miles the boat had to be pulled, along by ropes-"cordelling," they called it. At other places the boat was pushed along by poles, while the men in charge sometimes waded in water to their necks. The goods purchased along the way were left at the posts, where the fur company kept from thirty to a hundred

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men. The furs were bought at about one-fifth their commercial value. The trip going down stream was pleasant, and the cargo of buffalo robes, bales of furs, etc., was very valuable.

The only trouble with Indians was their habit of thieving. The Omahas, on the Nebraska side, never fought the Sioux unless forced to. Sometimes the small-pox would break out among the tribes carrying off whole villages in a single week. When the fever seized them, if in winter, they would roll naked in the snow, and if in summer plunge into the river, which nearly always caused death. Leonais finally gave up his roving, and in 1852 settled down at the mouth of Perry creek. About three years before that Theophile Bruguier had built his cabin on the Big Sioux. He had rolled a few logs together at the mouth of Perry creek and broken up a little land by which to hold his claim. Leonais bought him out for $100. This claim may be described as 160 acres of land bounded by the Missouri river, Perry creek, Seventh and Jones streets of to-day.

When Leonais was asked if he knew Robert Perry he replied: "Oh yes, when I was going to Bruguier's to buy my claim, I saw the blue smoke curling up from between the trees growing about his cabin, which was about where Smith's greenhouse is now (corner of Ninth and Pearl streets). I went to see him, but he could not talk much French and I but little English. He made me understand that he had raised some potatoes, turnips and corn, and that Sioux Indians had stolen all he raised. He seemed greatly alarmed about Indians. He was a very strange man, somewhat crazy I believe. He lived in his cabin for a year after I settled in mine, then gave me what corn he had left, about five tons of hay, loaded his household goods on a little sled, hitched his pony to the sled and went down the valley. I never saw or heard of him afterward."

John K. Cook
(click for larger image)

Leonais built his cabin on Second street, near Water street, and put in a small store and traded with the Indians. The Santee Sioux were more numerous than other Indians here then. This old pioneer raised three crops of corn in 1852, 1853 and 1854 on his land, which came down as far as Pearl street. In the spring of 1855, he sold his claim to Dr. John K. Cook and Capt. Ryder, for $3,000. They told him they wanted the land for an orchard, all of which pioneer Leonais did not believe, but thought $3,000 a good sum and closed the trade.

David Dodson was one of the few" squatters" of 1855; he

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HISTORY OF WOODBURY AND PLYMOUTH COUNTIES.

claimed land where now stands the Krumann dairy. He was a North Carolinian by birth, but moved here from Bloomfield, Iowa. He located early in March, 1855. Charles, his son, the first child born within the limits of the present plat of Sioux City, was born April 17, of the same year. The father, a few years later, 1857-58, was selected to locate the Santee Indians on their reservation near "Dodson's Landing," a hundred miles or so above Sioux City. There the family remained several years, and were engaged as Indian post traders. From that point Mr. Dodson went back down the river and was among the pioneers at Covington, Neb. He died in Sioux City in 1880. The mother now lives at Buffalo Gap, Wyo. Her son Charles, the first-born of this city, has been a western traveler, speaks four Indian dialects, has been engaged on the Sioux City police force for the past seven years, and is now city poundmaster.

The first white woman was Mrs. Sangster, a sister of Leonais and the widow of Mr. Lapore, who came from Canada in 1854 and joined her brother at Sioux City. In an interview with her it was learned that she found it quite lonesome with no white ladies near. She opposed her brother in selling his claim to Cook & Ryder, and Cook promised her a house and lot if she would allow the trade to go on. She says she never got the promised property, however.

When asked about Indians she said they were very numerous, but behaved well, except that they would steal whenever they could. She relates that their dead were placed on scaffolds on "Prospect Hill." The bodies remained there until the birds first, and afterward the wolves, had a pick at them, leaving nothing but the bones to remind the passer-by of the human form.

Mrs. Sangster (then Mrs. Lapore) married Mr. Charles Sangster March 12, 1856.-this being the first wedding in Sioux City. February 15, 1857, a son was born to them, named Charles, which by many is thought to be the first white male child born here, but this is not correct, as Charles Dodson was born April 17, 1855.

The next white woman to come to Sioux City was Mrs. S. H. Cassady, who was the mother of the first female child, born April 25, 1856. She grew to womanhood, married, and died at Council Bluffs in 1877.

The Rowe Affair.-Mrs. Sangster said: "I want the following to go into history, as a false idea has got out regarding the early French

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settlers. Young Rowe had a claim on the Floyd river, just above the present mill property. He engaged a half-breed to live on his claim while he went east. When he came back the half-breed would not give up the land, and Rowe built another claim cabin on the same tract. He was in love with a very pretty half-breed girl by the name of Victoria, but she sided with the half-breed who was trying to get Rowe's claim. Rowe was boarding at Austin Cole's hotel in town, and We-Washeta, an Indian girl who waited on the table, was persuaded by a friend of the half-breed to pour poison in his coffee. As the person who persuaded the girl to do this told me long years afterward, a vial was given We-Washeta, with the poison—some Indian drug in it. The girl had the vial in her sleeve and poured it in Rowe's coffee. It did not kill him at once, but made him insane. He was taken east to his home and died. It would be very unjust to charge this to the French people, who were always friendly to the Americans."

Wild Game.-In interviewing pioneer Leonais he remarked, when asked about wild game: "I have seen the bluffs black with buffalo, turkey and deer. Elk were plenty, and bears had dens in 'Prospect Hill,' and lived on choke-cherries and wild pears that grew on the bluff-side. The beavers had a dam across the Floyd river, just east of town. Otter crossed the Missouri from the Nebraska side, and there never was a better country for game until the winter of 1856-57, when the snow was over four feet deep on the general level, with a. sharp crust on top. At that time much game starved to death. The deer would break through the crusted snows, and if they were chased it cut their legs to the bone. The wolves killed a great many, and the settlers had no trouble in killing them with clubs. From that date forward settlement was more rapidly made and game grew scarcer."

Canadian-French-Here, as in most if not all the great valleys west and south of the lakes, the Canadian-French were the earliest pioneers. At Vincennes, Dubuque, Detroit, St. Louis, Vermillion, Kaskaska and Fort Benton they planted the first settlements in the states in which these cities are found.

Their Mackinaws (boats) were on every navigable river, their trail on the prairie, and their trading post in the shelter of the bluff, long before the English-speaking settlers came to claim the glory of being the first. Hardy, hospitable, simple, peaceful, just as Longfellow

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pictures them in his" Evangeline," the Acadians of Grand Pre, these -countrymen of Evangeline have been the forerunners of civilization and usually the first actual settlers.

Pioneer C. K. Smith's Recollections.-In an interview with Pioneer C. K. Smith, regarding the first settlement in and near Sioux City; it was learned that Mr. Smith came with Dr. Cook—not upon Cook's 1854 trip, but in 1855. His party when he first came, consisted of George Chamberlain (who laid claim to the quarter section coming south to Seventh street, who was killed during a cyclone up Perry Creek, July, 1881, having but little Sioux City property when he died), Frank Chappel, and men named Rowe and Ruth. It was claimed that Rowe was poisoned. [See account elsewhere.]

When Mr. Smith arrived he found Joseph Leonais just on the east side of the mouth of Perry creek His cornfield was upon the bottom, the center near where the vinegar works were afterward located. He had bought the land from Bruguier. Mr. Traversee lived on what later was known as the Spalding farm, east from the Floyd on the rosd to Sergeant's Bluff. St. Onge lived on the Floyd east of the brickyard afterward owned by Woodley; and Kirkie ("Wild Frenchman") lived farther up the Floyd in the grove opposite the Tredway farm. Thompson lived, east of the Floyd at the foot of Floyd's Bluff, and was the only American settler anywhere near when Dr. Cook first came in with his surveying party.

Farther down, in Lakeport township, George Murphy had claimed 1and, and two miles north of Onawa a man named Ashton had named a town site after himself. This constituted all the settlement until one came to the Little Sioux river, an account of which settlement will be found in the various township histories within this volume. There was but little settlement, however, away from the Missouri bottom, except here and there on the Maple and Little Sioux streams. The Mormons had effected a settlement at Council Bluffs in 1849, and extended out into the fertile valleys, both north and south.

Mr. Smith also states that the making of a real city here has wrought many topographical changes in this locality. The" bench" was then from Fifth or Sixth streets north, and rose about eight feet pretty abruptly. It was very wet and marshy on the bottom, just at the foot of the bench, and near the corner of Fourth and Jackson streets there was a wide pond of water standing for years. Between

Wm. R. Smith
(click image for larger size)

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Perry creek and Prospect Hill there was a big grove of native timber, with many wild grapevines of big proportions. There is where the early picnics and Fourth of July celebrations were held. At the time the United States soldiers were camped here, this fine grove was nearly all cut down and ruined. There was a wagon road up the west side of Perry creek. The stream has long since cut its channel in there and taken the spot where Liege Robinson built the first brick house in Sioux City. Robinson there burned the first brick, a part of which went into his own house and a part toward the construction of Schuster's store, the oldest brick business house in the city.

At first there was no trouble on account of Indians. Gen. Harney came down with his troops from beyond the Big Sioux, in 1854. The Sioux tribe followed him as far as that stream, stopping at Sioux Point timber. There they were thick enough, but did not attempt hostilities on this side of the river. Indeed they could gain nothing by coming over, as nearly all the droves of buffalo were on the west side, while elk and deer were plenty on either side of the Big Sioux River.

It may be said in this connection, that Dr. John K. Cook, the founder of Sioux City, was a practicing physician, and the only one here for some time. Cook was agent for, and member of, the townsite company. The firm was known as Henn, Williams & Cook. Henn and Williams lived at Fairfield, Iowa. Henn was in congress and, aided by Gen. Jones, of Dubuque, and Gen. Dodge, of Burlington, United States senators, was successful in getting the government land office established at Sioux City.

Gen. Lyon, the brave soldier of the Civil war, who fell at Wilson's creek, was also a land owner here, and was connected with the early operations hereabouts; also Hiram Nelson and Marshall Townsley.

During the month of December, 185-1, Dr. John K. Cook commenced to plat Sioux City. He was of a government surveying party and was charmed by the advantages seen in this locality. At the mouth of Floyd river he found encamped, many Indians, including Smutty Bear, their chief, who ordered him to desist from the work of surveying, under threats of violence upon the part of his warriors, whom he would summon from the "upper country." Dr. Cook replied (through a French interpreter), that if he were not peaceable he would go at once for white men of sufficient numbers to exterminate his tribe. Being thus intimidated the savages struck their tee pes and departed.

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HISTORY OF WOODBURY AND PLYMOUTH COUNTIES.

Dr. Cook having faith in the natural location for a city, claimed land here, as did several of his party and at once begun laying out what has come to be the "Corn Palace City." The weather being delightful, work progressed rapidly and was completed January 9, 1855. So mild was the winter that men drove stakes, in their shirt sleeves, and the Missouri river was frozen over but eleven days during the winter.

The next spring Dr. Cook purchased the Joseph Leonais quarter section, and upon it laid out Sioux City's "East Addition."

In the early settlement of Sioux City, the Indians were somewhat troublesome, and the citizens were several times ordered to leave the county by the chiefs of the Yankton Sioux Indians, but no bloodshed occurred, to speak of. Large parties of Indians passed through the town with war-paint upon their dusky faces, and their war-whoop was not unfrequently heard, accompanied by the scalp dance of the savages.

In the spring of 1855 there were two log cabins where now Sioux City stands. A post-office was established in July, and a United States land office established in December, but was not open for the transaction of business until 1856. In June, 1856, the first steamboat freighted for Sioux City landed, bringing provisions and ready-framed houses. The population increased that year to about 400, and about ninety buildings were erected. Great excitement for western land prevailed, real estate commanded high prices, and the land office did an immense business. The county seat of Woodbury county was removed from "Thompsontown" (Floyd's Bluff), by popular vote that year.

Early in 1857 Sioux City, by a special act of the general assembly, became an incorporated town. It was also in 1857 that Seth W. Swiggett started the first newspaper-the "Sioux City Iowa Eagle;" the first number appearing July 4, 1857. A complete file is now in the city library. [See press chapter.]

A great portion of the early settlement treated on thus far, in this chapter, relates more especially to that effected by the French-Canadians. The subjoined will serve to show those who chiefly formed the first American settlement at Sioux City. They are given under the sub-heading of years in which they effected settlement, except in a few exceptions in the 1855 list, in which case, some came prior, but were here in that year.